Fionnay : Les Sanglots Longs
Fusionner des documents
Attention, les photos associées ne seront pas supprimées et deviendront orphelines.
Si vous souhaitez juste modifier le titre ou les documents associés (ex : déplacer une sortie vers un autre itinéraire), il suffit de modifier le document.
Si ce document est un doublon comportant des photos, demandez @Modo_Topo_FR de fusionner les doublons pour déplacer les photos sur le document conservé.
Points de passage
Livres
Itinéraires
Articles
Images
Rapports incidents/accidents
A nice route that follows a series of weaknesses in the face (slabs, cracks, holes), relatively homogeneous except for the one 7a+ pitch.
The route was opened in 2018 and could use some more cleaning (lichen and dirt) but the rock is solid.
We were fortunate to have met the first ascender himself who approached us at the parking lot.
Historique de l'itinéraire
Opened solo from the bottom by Michael Kimber in 2018.
Description
Approach
20min
Starting from the parking lot in front of the old hôtel (now a dormitory), head towards the chapel. Behind it, there is an area with a high boulder (bolted). From there we enter the forest, keeping near its left edge. There are a couple of cairns. At some point, we exit the forest on the left, pass another big rock, reach the rock face, then traverse a bit to the right until we arrive at the start of the route.
The route starts on the right of a small roof. No markings, but there was a metal brush suspended near the start.
There seem to be many paths that crisscross the forest, below the face so this is probably not the only way to get there.
The following grades are as they appear in the topo. I mostly agree (give or take half a grade).
L1 (6b+)
Starts with a short near-vertical climb, then a slab that leads into a wide crack. I approached the crack from the left with a long stem and stayed outside of the crack. My partner climbed through the crack (crux). To each his own. After that easier but enjoyable slab climbing.
L2 (6b)
More slab climbing with a short vertical section in the second half (crux)
L3 (6b+)
Start with a traverse on a nearly featureless slab to the right and slightly up. Crux at the 3rd bolt (IIRC) where the route takes an upward direction (a nice slab boulder move, well protected). The rest of the pitch follows a nice crack, with a few obligatory hand jams. The route feels harder than the 1st pitch, I would give it half a grade more.
L4 (6a)
Easy slab climbing on a somewhat dirty face, top out on a comfortable grassy ledge.
L5 (7a+)
Crux between the 1st and 3rd bolt. The bolts are spaced closely here. Small rest after the 3rd bolt. Then another section of maybe 6c+ climbing on pockets and holes, there are so many of them it's a bit confusing. The last part of the pitch is a nice slab.
L6 (6a)
More slab climbing
L7 (6a+)
More slab climbing followed by a vertical section with quartz features. I broke a small foothold there but held the fall with my hands. Finish with a long, unprotected grassy section.
L8 (6b)
From the ledge go right. There are two options for the last two pitches. The first route on the right is a 7a. Our feet hurt too much to bother with that. We opt for the 6b which is further on the right. This is probably the nastiest pitch of the route as you have to climb over a shrub and the actual vertical gain is very little.
L9 (6a+)
Starts with a slab climb that leads to a beautiful crack going all the way to the top. The crack was just a bit too large to get a solid hand jam with my narrow hand in many places so I stayed mostly outside of it, using an occasional foot jam. My partner stayed more in the crack.
Descent
Rappels. With 2×60 m ropes, we were able to easily rappel through two pitches at a time except for L7.
i.e. R9->R7, R7->R6, R6->R4, R4->R2, R2->R0.
With 2×50 m I don't think you can rappel two pitches at a time, maybe R9->R7 and R2->R0.
The rappel from R9 to R7 is the most awkward one due to the horizontal distance and the possibility to get the rope stuck, take care.
Matériel
All belay stations are equipped with two bolts and quicklinks for rappel.
14 quickdraws
Brush to clean some holds
2×60 m (recommended for faster rappel) or 2×50 m ropes.
Ressources externes
Entremont Escalades 2022, Olivier Roduit, pages 176-177
Commentaires
Ce contenu est sous licence Creative Commons BY-SA 3.0
Les images associées à cette page sont disponibles sous la licence spécifiée sur le document d'origine de chaque image.
Imprimé le 3 juillet 2025 19:04