Ob Savi [Dry-tooling]

Ob Savi [Dry-tooling]

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General

elevation: 210 m

waypoint_type: waterfall

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quality: fine

description

Quite in the center of Slovenia, the dry-tooling site Ob Savi is right by the Sava. More than thirty routes between D5 and D9−, most of them between D8− and D8+.

The cliff is on the right bank of the Sava, below road 108, approx. 2km away from the train station of Zagorje ob Savi.

The names of the routes are discreetly marked at the foot of the routes.

The climbing site was created and developed in 2009, by Vili Guček. Reequipment taking place (2017).

Access

  • Parking area of the Zagorje ob Savi train station.
  • Note that there is a small parking niche approx. 150m upstream from where the path starts down, but not for more than four vehicles.

Approach

From the car park at the train station, cross the bridge over the Sava and head upstream along road 108. At the end of the retaining wall below the road (to the right, towards the river), go down along a steep but secured path.

First corner

Short routes.
Minutka za zdravje D6
Oaza miru D5+
Poledica D5
Jekleni prsti D7
Truplo v vodi D8−

Cave

Inkvizicija D8
Križanje D9−
Razodetje D8+
Nekoristni svet D8+
Razpelo D8+
Z ognjem in mečem D8

Central wall

Zlom volje D8−
Odrešitev D7
Delo osvobaja D7+
Zamrznjeno seme D8+
Krioterapija D8+
Moški z jajci D8+
Orodna telovadba D8+
Kri in čast D8+ (left exit : Krvave ostroge D8+)
Izumrle ostroge D8−

Left side

Abalakov D6 (left exit : Abalakov plus D6+)
Šokabsorber D8
Cepinodrom D8
Cena užitka D8−
Bivak smrti D7+
Podhladitev D8−
Špaltna D6
Beli ščit D7+

End sector

Short routes, roof starts.
Lavina D7
Kloža D7−
Opast D7−
Serak D6+
Zdrs D6+

Remarks

  • Anchors with chained bolts.
  • The crag is not accessible in case of heavy floods (rare).
  • Guidebook for climbing with tools (dry-tooling) for the Zasavje region (Plezanje z orodji / dry-tooling v Zasavju), by Vili Guček.
  • Comparison table between the French free climbing grades (sport) and the dry-tooling D grades (from the guidebook) :

5ab D4
5c6a D5
6ab D6
6bc D7
6c7a D8
7ab D9
7bc D10
7c D11
8a D12
8b and more D13

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