Salbitschijen : Clog and Stock
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Opened 11.07.1984, Claude and Yves Remy.
Rebolted and cleaned (Saniert) 2019 R. Bunschi and H. Gisler.
Description
Approach (1h20)
Same approach as Jimmy and Villiger.
From the hut follow the blue/white marked path in the direction of the Salbit-bridge. Follow the indicated side path, starting at a big boulder, in the direction of the foot of the climb. A sharp eye can spot the marking "CLOG" at the first belay station of the route. The path becomes less clear when it approaches the rock. (Currently?) It ends at a snow field. Early season the snow can be very hard and dangerous to traverse. (Take a rock at hand.)
Glog and Stock starts right from Jimmy and left from Villiger.
Itinerary
Once in the route, route finding is very easy. Follow the blue bold and huge corners.
L1 | 6a | 20 m | It starts to the right of the obvious start of Jimmy. See the picture with the detailed trajectory. It starts with a bolted slab part, followed by a small crack leading to a larger left angled crack. The anchor is clearly marked by the big 'CLOG' sign. (If you have accidentally started in Jimmy, traverse left over the first anchor to the first anchor of C&S) |
L2 | 6b | 40 m | Nice climbing up a crack system. Follow the closely placed bolts. At the end a sharp traverse to the right leads to the belay station. Two or three delicate moves. |
L3 | 6a+ | 40 m | Climb up the block and traverse to the right to a beautiful corner. Good holds, but rather physical. |
L4 | 6a | 35 m | Continue climbing up to a anchor at the foot of some easy terrain. |
L5 | 3 | 40 m | Short grassy section. Anchor at the foot of first big corner pitch. |
L6 | 5b | 30 m | Four beautiful pitches up the corner. Lots of features in the first pitch. The first anchor has been lowered. |
L7 | 5c | 45 m | Climbing becomes a bit tougher. |
L8 | 5b | 35 m | Somewhere it is climbed as an open chimney. This pitch? |
L9 | 4c | 35 m | And it eases off again into a very featured corner. |
L10 | 3 | 30 m | Climb a few meters and then cross the couloir. Be careful with loose rock. To be avoided in snowy conditions. |
L11 | 5c | 25 m | Crack climbing up in the corner. Again, the anchor has been lowered compared to the original one. |
L12 | 5c | 30 m | Start straight up, a small traverse to the left and back into the corner. |
L13 | 5c | 30 m | UP up up, in the everlasting corner |
L14 | 5a | 30 m | One crack for each foot brings you up to the next anchor |
L15 | 4 | 20 m | Climb up to the top of the tower. |
L16 | 3 | 20 m | Climb around the block above the anchor and follow the ridge to the descent path. It is hidden on the North side of the range, behind some rock and boulders. |
Salbit Needle
It takes a 5 minute walk up to the needle.
Descent
There is a very well indicated path going from the Salbit needle down in to the valley. Keep harnesses on to clip in on exposed sections on the ridge (an in the descent). Keep to the very (skiers) right in the bottom gully to avoid stone fall.
Matériel
A standard rack of friends will do. A (0.5 - 2) rack with doubles in 0.75, 1 and 2 will be super comfortable. Nuts are not really required.
Accès en transport en commun
We didn't find any public transport stop point in a 5 km foot range from any route access point.


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Imprimé le 26 juillet 2025 07:15