Crêt du Rey : North-North-East Ridge and Couloir Nord
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Description
Climb: From Mappaz, follow the road until Saint Guérin dam, you can cut across a turn above the Ami. Follow the road towards Cormet d'Arèches which descends 20 m of HD. At Darbellay chalet, cut across the turns by following the general route of the road to spot elevation 1822m. Follow the road until Lac des Fées. Leave it and continue completely south by following the summer trail to reach the road at spot elevation 2064m. You then reach Cormet d'Arêches by following the road.
From Cormet, follow a pastoral road completely south, then south-east passing spot elevation 2134m. Leave it in line with point 2264m, that you reach via a hook on the left. You then reach the summit of the ridge around 2400m via a regular southwest ascent. Follow it to point 2534m, to the foot of the difficulties. The ridge can be more or less easily climbed depending on the quantity and of the quality of the snow to reach the main summit (2633m). It takes 4 to 5h.
Ascent variant: this ridge can also be started from Granier in Tarentaise: follow the road until Cormet d'Arêches.
Descent: Continue the ridge via steep pitches as far as the western summit, below it is the descent corridor on the northern slope. This narrow corridor slopes around 45° at the start, with 100 to 120m HD, then the slope becomes gentler, you reach Chevalière stream that you follow until Cormet d'Arèches, then continue via the ascent route. It takes 1h15 to 1h45.
Remarques
The route is somewhat long if you have to start from Mappaz by following the road. You can plan on doing it in two days and sleep at the Coire CAF refuge (2058m, below Cormet, Tarentaise side) or at the Econdu refuge (1884m), located about 1.5 km before Cormet.
Sometimes exposed, but not very technical ridge.
Corridor facing completely north sometimes still snow covered in June.
Access:
Albertville -Beaufort -Arèches -Direction of Saint Guérin to the place called Le Mappaz, end of the cleared road. Park here, watch out for private places and areas for rescue vehicles. This tour is possible in spring when the road is cleared until Saint Guérin, or even until Cormet d'Arèches.
Accommodation:
Gîte la Charmette 1 km from Arèches - tel : 04 73 38 18 12 . CAF Coire refuge: 04.79.09.70.92 or 06.82.12.40 42. private Econdu refuge (reservations only, phone 04.79.38.36.80). Other lodging: information at the Office de Tourisme at 04.79.38.15 33.
Matériel
You may need to use crampons to climb the ridge.
Accès en transport en commun
Arrêt : Areches (Place-du-Capitaine-Bulle) (Beaufort)
Distance avec le point d'arrêt du topo : 4.49 km
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Imprimé le 2 août 2025 12:54