Mont Clapier : Loop and Summit
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Description
Day 1: From Pont du Countet 1702m, go up the dale of Gordolasque either on the right or left bank (depends on the snow cover) until the Mur des Italiens 2022m. Go up a small scoop on the left which leads to the flat area of Barme 2136m. Traverse this flat area and go up under the Fous dam that you pass on the left (on the right if there is good snow cover). The refuge is in sight, either skirting Lac de la Fous on the right bank or crossing it and reaching the Nice refuge by a short wall.
Day 2: Climb 1: Climb to the E behind the refuge until Lac Niré 2353m. Just after the lake, go up the left side of small gullies which lead to Lac Tout Seul (2483m, without name on IGN) then to go up the crest prolonging the top of La Fous until a flat area to the SSW of this top. Traverse via the W side W of this top to reach the upper part of Vallon de la Fous. Go up until slightly before Pas de la Fous, and climb a short slope, steeper to the N to reach the E Pas of Clapier 2862m. (Possibility of climbing it the Cime Viglino 2910m to the E of the pass).
Descent 1: Descend via the N slope, approximately 300 m, on the southernmost glacier of the Alps.
Climb 2: Climb the W Pas of Clapier 2834m via a scoop ending in a 50m corridor that is generally climbed on foot. Descend approximately 80 m, then to go up diagonally by a broad hook on the right to reach the summit dome.
Descent 2: Descend the summit bump to the SSE until a characteristic neck (pt. 2911m). Here there are two solutions: -go diagonally on the right in a succession of small gullies and pretty slopes to reach the dale of Mt. Clapier that you follow until Lac de la Fous. It is possible to go by the refuge again while traversing the last gully uphill (2300m). -Asquacsiati couloir (D -, S5): From the neck, head towards the left bank (bump) and follow the edge of the bar until the entry of the corridor at 2810m. Do not try it from above. Descend a little more on the right of the corridor reached via a snow ledge. The rest is obvious. Descend the large slopes under the corridor to reach the Nice refuge via the dale of the Niré. It is also possible at the bottom of the couloir to traverse to the right under a bar to reach the W slope of Clapier at point 2615m (better solution in the event of late descent). The descent to the refuge is carried out by the same route as the climb.
Remarques
The climb to the Nice refuge involves a few flat sections. Then it is very effective. This route normally takes two days, but it can also be done in one without problems.
The Ascquasciati corridor variant is graded D -(S5). The slopes W of Clapier are unrelenting in S3. Some short sections in S4.
All orientations because it is a loop: N for the descent of the E Pas. E to go up the W Pas and W for the Clapier descent.
Access:
Nice -Vallée du Var until Plan du Var. Then take D2565 (Vallée de la Vésubie). At Roquebillière, take road D171 which goes up Vallée de la Gordolasque. Follow the road until it ends at the St Grat electric factory, or if the road is cleared, until the Pont du Countet 1702m.
Accommodation:
Nice refuge. 2230m. 80 places. 30 places unattended. Christophe Fournier tel. 06.61.97.59.38
Matériel
Possibly crampons for hard snow.
Accès en transport en commun
Arrêt : La Gordolasque (Belvédère)
Distance avec le point d'arrêt du topo : 0.05 km
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Imprimé le 25 juillet 2025 23:22