Roc Ponent : Via GER

Roc Ponent : Via GER

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Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

5b > 5b

    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 640 m / 990 m

height_diff: +350 m / -350 m

height_diff_difficulties: 180 m

difficulties_height: 800 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From l'Espluga de Francolí take the road to Prades. After having crossed the Castellfollit Torrent, turn left onto a small paved road that you need to follow until you reach an ancient quarry, easily visible to the left. There's a crossing with a short road that leas to a small parking lot. Take the small path that begins there and that crosses the stream. You will then enter the forest right next to a pile of rocks of the abandoned quarry. The path winds its way up until it forks. Even if it's less trodden, take the one to the right because the other one ends up in the middle of an overgrown forest. You will exit the forest to enter a scree that you have to climb until the beginning of the route.

The route

L1 V 30m The beginning is somewhat to the left of a pronounced dihedral. You need to follow a tiny chimney that abuts on a ledge. Over it there's a smooth section that is well protected by pitons. Once you have overcomed it you have to go back to the right following a ledge until a tree.
L2 V 35m Go up through the dihedral above you until you reach a hole in the wall tha lets you see the opposite face of the buttress. Turn then to the left and skirt around the edge of the crest and find a ledge protected by three pitons easily visible that ends up in an old and twisted oak where you set up a belay station.
L3 V 25m This short pitch lets you reach another oak located on the crest. You can avoid the difficulties going first to the right and then continue up through the crest (IV+), you can also climb directly the wall under the oak taking advantage of the cracks that allow you both to climb and to protect the route.
L4 IV 40m Go out of the hole where the oak grows along the dihedral situated over it. Overcome a step and continue through easier terrain until the belay station (two bolts in place). If you avoid the first dihedral starting the pitch to the right then the difficulties go down (IV).
L5 IV+ 50m Go up directly from the belay station to overcome the last difficult section of the route (IV+). Afterwards it becomes less and less steep. Climb until the summit.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Nuts and friends are easily located all along the route. Take long slings to loop or to girth hitch around rock tunnels and to prepare the belay stations in the trees.

external_resources

Drawing on escalatroncs.com.
Vèrtex magazine no. 244

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