Tête de la Fontaine : Via Corda

Tête de la Fontaine : Via Corda

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

PD  
3b
    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 860 m / 1206 m

difficulties_height: 1030 m

route_history

Route equipped in 2009 by Fernand and Gilbert Pareau

description

A unique outing which traverses across a steep forested cliff for hundreds of metres on earthy paths with friable rock, before climbing up 50m directly onto the balcony of a little cafe.
Very well equipped with "pigtail" type bolts. Petzl bolts for the last 50m

Approach. 25mins from the car

In the village of Servoz, coming from Chamonix, turn right just after crossing the Diosaz torrent on to the D143 and follow this for about 1km this until an obvious hairpin. There is a bus stop sign marked "Les Moulins". Turn off right here and into a parking for about 7 cars. Leave the car here. Follow the tarmacked road for 50m until the path turns right at the "Maison Croz" and crosses the river; bridge. There is a little signpost for the Via Corda on the left. After a couple of a hundred metres turn right at a fork in the path. (The descent path comes back down the left fork.) Again a little "Via Corda" signpost. Follow the path to some scree, where you turn left, signposted, to reach the first yellow pigtail bolt.

Route. 1hr 30mins

Follow the yellow painted "pigtail" bolts, (there are also some normal bolts with hangers and the occasional chain or sling around a tree.) At this point the route is basically a path traversing across friable rocks and loose earth. After an easier section of path you come to the final "headwall". A short climb up leads to a splitting in the routes, signposted. Go left if you want to avoid the only bit of worthwhile climbing. Otherwise, three pitches (3b) of 15m leads to the balcony of the "Tete de la Fontaine" buvette, (about three bolts in each pitch.)

Descent. 20mins

From the buvette, quickly join the 4x4 track and then leave this after about 7 mins by turning left on to the path signposted "Moulins"

remarks

Anick's cooking awaits you at the buvette. (Open if the flag is flying, visible from Les Moulins.)
The route is very well equipped.
The climbing on this via corda is not of the same quality as those of Les Mottets above Les Bois. May improve with use.
Perhaps a good choice for a morning when it is dry but an afternoon storm prevents going higher.
Probably best avoided if very wet, (sloping mud.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

4 quickdraws and a sling. No need for rock shoes. 25 - 30m rope.

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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