Grépon : Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune

See the Piola's climbing guide.

Route

Some details:

• P0
  At the end of the season, the bergschrund can be overcome thanks to a fixed rope. Good terrace before L1.
  Crossing: We crossed directly at the same height and climbed right up towards the belay on a spit with a little red sling (easy climbing) the second crossing: 1 spit 10m below the little tower
• P8
  Belay on a spit on a good terrace
• P9
  Cross frankly on the right to find 2 spits (aim below the yellow spot) and then a little more to the left is the belay
• P11
  There is rope which allows one to descend the two meters or to climb up when returning.
• P23
  After 10m straight, one crosses strongly to the left then dihedral and belay (do not go into the first dihedral meaning do not go straight = difficult and exhausting dihedral)
• P24
  6a+
• P25
  Climb very much on the left of the three summit dihedrals

No problem for the rest: good belays 2 spits / coherent route

Descent

Abseils shifted: after having climbed with the fixed rope, one finds the belay from the going up / the first shifted abseil is frankly to the left looking to the ground / after one can see (with difficulty...) that the next belay is on the other side of the little couloir very much on the right, this time on a block (one reaches this belay after almost 50m of abseiling)

For the rappels: always pay attention to the risk of wedging the rope.
Exceptional rock / the slabs and the belays on spit / the rest is to be protected (a good set of friends and nuts)

5-6 medium sized nuts can be usefull (BD #5 to #10) A set C4 from #.3 to #3 with C4 #.5, #.75 and #1 doubled