Peñón de Ifach : Vía Pany Lundi 20 mars 2017

Soleil, légère brume sur la mer, vent N <4 m/s

Sec sauf le première longueur, puis très beau calcaire bien préservé

No climber can visit Calpe without feeling the urge to climb the Peñon de Ifach... and it doesn't disappoint. Via Pany is (to my knowledge) the easiest route on the rock. I found it definitely worth the effort, both for the climbing and the ambiance on the rock almost isolated in the Mediterranean. There are ~2 bolts per pitch, placed at the hardest passages, and the anchors are bolted (some with rap rings). Otherwise there is the odd piton here and there. Lots of threads and pockets for hex placements.

L1: Awful, greasy trench where I could only fit sideways... probably the worst pitch I've climbed ;) 3+
L2: Easy pitch with quite a lot of vegetation but already much more worthwhile 3
L3: First "proper" pitch. Steep but easy climbing on the pillar with panoramic views; the Ifach starts to show it's true colours 4
L4: The crux: steep and sparsely bolted, but easily protectable crack. 5/5+
L5: Easy climbing around the corner out on the W/NW face facing Calpe. Sublime views from a comfortable belay on a wide platform. 4
L6: Compact slab with a diagonal crack, sparsely bolted but easily protected. Fantastic ambience. Route finding is a bit tricky; we climbed up to the small overhang which we avoided to the right, whereas the rockfax topo seems to indicate an earlier traverse into the summit crack. 5/5+
L7: Somewhat thin, steep climbing on compact rock followed by a series of ledges and a couloir/crack with a lot of loose rock. No bolts (apart from the belay) and difficult to protect (some good friend placements). 4+/5