author: Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley
editor: The Mountaineers
From the editor:
- For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture higher
- Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)
- Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as technique
This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude - approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower.
The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery-and safety-lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process.
Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.
Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston have been guides and climbing instructors for more than 20 years. In 1988, Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face. Mark was among the first guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. Together, they made a lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua.
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