Installing an equalized belay station (source Petzl)
WARNINGS
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
Semi-directional anchor
The master point of the equalization is mobile.
Advantage: the load is always evenly distributed on the two higher points, even with lateral pull (if the belayer moves over to see the climber, or if there is a traverse at the end of the climb...).
Disadvantage: if one of the anchor points fails, the master point slides to the end of the sling, shock loading the remaining anchor.
A knot in the sling reduces the impact of a failed anchor point. It should be made on the side of the weaker anchor, or on both sides.
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Anchor with one sling, one knot and a half-twist in the sling
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Anchor with one sling, two knots and a half-twist in the sling
Note: If the piton hole is already overly used or if its position results in cantilevered loading of the carabiner, the sling can be girth-hitched on one or two anchor points. In this case, check that the piton edges are not sharp enough to cut the sling.
Mono-directional belay station
The master point of the equalized anchor is fixed..
Advantage : no shock load in case of an anchor failure (hanging on the remaining anchor).
Disadvantage : poor load distribution in case of lateral pull.
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Belay station with knotted master point (clove hitch)
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Belay station with knotted dynamic rope for equalization on three points.
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Belay station equalized with the climbing rope (only when alternating leaders).
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Example of poor load distribution on a mono-directional belay station.
Consequences of equalization angles
The angle of the equalization affects the load distribution on the anchor points.
Author and source
This Petzl technical documentation is shared on https://www.camptocamp.org in partnership with the Petzl Foundation. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.
Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V1
Date: 25/01/2015
Commentaires
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Imprimé le 20 juin 2025 11:50
