Barberine

  • Type:
    cliff
    • Elevation:
      1300m
    • Longitude:
      6° 56' 34.39" E
    • Latitude:
      46° 3' 12.48" N
    • Swiss coordinates:
      561629 / 100337 [map]
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Crags, boulders, gyms:
Barbourine  1000m
Access points:
Barberine  1160m - r
Le Châtelard  1140m - r
frenchitaliangerman
english
spanishcatalanbasque

Excellent climbing on good granite, with lots of compact slabs and airy pillars.

Approach10mins

Drive through Vallorcine and 200m before the Swiss border turn off to the left towards the little hamlet of Baberine.  Park the car shortly after the turn off as there is no public parking in the village.  Walk through the village and take a path on the right towards the crag, over a footbridge, (and into Switzerland) and across a meadow.  A path to the left leads towards Sylvie Phobie and Barbourine).  To the right numerous paths lead up a wooded boulder field to the "lower slabs".  Keeping further right you eventually join the path with cables that leads back leftwards above the "lower slabs" to the start of Vipere du Pied etc.

Remarks

The "lower slabs" ( UTM 32 T 0329693  5083732) give excellent training in friction climbing.  For someone with good slab technique it is possible to "walk" up the routes at F5, if not some of the moves soon feel nearer F6a.  The best part of these slabs are at the left hand end, being higher (75m) and cleaner. The topo in "Crag Climbs in Chamonix" is a bit misleading.  On the right hand side of the left hand section there is an obvious tree at about 30m above the start.  The bolted line on the right leads up to this, (5b, but easier if you start to the left of the line of bolts/sometimes greasy recess.)  From here there are three separate lines of bolts.  The right hand one leads to a belay in 20m followed by a much harder pitch to the top, (the path with a fixed cable leading to climbs on the main cliff.)  The other two lead in 40-45 metres to the top, (no belay part way as shown in the topo!)  The left hand line is the easier of the two, (start it to the left.) Both these routes become easier higher up, (opposite to that indicated in the topo.) Back at the base of the slabs and moving leftwards, the next two bolt lines give alternative ways of getting to the first belay level with the tree.  Further left there are three lines of bolts fairly close together and one has to weave about a bit if you want to take the easiest line, (5b, 2 or 3 pitches).  To descend either make 2 abseils back down, (preferable,) or walk off down the path following the cables.

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Balade au bout des Combes1500m+300m(250m)  S TD+IP1A0/6c>6b
Bon Voyage1300m+300m(300m)  S EDIP17a>6c
La Barbourine1300m+300m(250m)  S TD+IP16c>6b
Mirrors on the ceilling1300m+300m(300m)  SW EDIP17a>6c
Méduse1300m+230m(230m)  S ED-IP17a>6c
Sylvie Phobie1300m+250m(250m)  S TD+IP16c+>6a+
Tour de Chauffe1600m+200m(200m)  S ED-IP16c>6b
Vipère au pied1300m+250m(250m)  S TD+IP16b+>6a+
Châtelard - Giétroz: Autoroute Blanche1200m+300m(250m)  SE TD+IP16c>6a
Barberine : Vipère au pied1300m
Châtelard - Giétroz : Autoroute Blanche1200m
Barberine : Bon Voyage1300m
Châtelard - Giétroz : Autoroute Blanche1200m
Barberine : Mirrors on the ceilling1300m
Barberine : Bon Voyage1300m
Barberine : La Barbourine1300m

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Version #6, date 25 August 2013