6089 m




elevation: 6089 m

waypoint_type: summit

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quality: draft




ABI Peak (Cholo Peak) : the mountain is approached from an excellent Base Camp 2km North West of Cho La pass or 4km North East of Dragnag. There are 2 potential routes, both of which were recce'd up to the summit ridge, the first climbs the lower icefall (as a roped party) and takes the skyline to the West of the Col, this is an excellent route along a tight ridge with sharp drops to each side, it would take approximately 600 metres of rope to fix the whole section or individual 20m lengths in about 15 different places. It is best suited to a small group capable of moving over complex ground either roped up or solo.
The second route takes a winding route up through scree slopes to the West of the main icefall, it is not obvious at first glance but cairns have been put in place to assist navigation. The route is relatively souless but can be rapidly ascended with a group provided fixed ropes are placed ahead of the group ascent, 450 metres were used to fix this section.
The summit ridge is narrow and can only be climbed in good snow conditions. In poor conditions 40 plus snow stakes will be required and approx 200m of fixed rope

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