Amora Gedel is the first properly equipped crag in Ethiopia. Some routes have been equipped in the 90s on other sites but it is now getting old.
The site was equipped starting from 2013 and new routes have been bolted since then, to reach 30-ish in 2016. Some routes are trad / mix, but most of them are bolted. Some anchors at the top are chained, but most of them only have hanging chains not linked to each other. Huge potential for new routes!
Possibility to camp for free next to a big fig tree 5 min walk from the crag.
The climbers who would like to climb there should join the Facebook group "Rock Climbers Ethiopia", which is the central point of the Addis Ababa climbing community (https://www.facebook.com/groups/119822356270/). Once in the FB group, you should also ask to join the whatsapp group that people use to coordinate to go climbing (to define time and location pickups).
The FB group will also allow you to download the detailed topo of the crag and all the necessary information (history, directions, …). See Nico Demus' pinned post. Many active climbers will not hesitate to share their gear with you, but it is still advisable to bring some climbing shoes ;)
The vast majority of the climbers are expats on fixed-term contracts, they will come and go as the contracts end and start, hence the active climbers are very prone to change year to year.
Means of descent
Top-rope and rappel
Some stones can fall while climbing, mainly on the less popular / harder routes. Sometimes some kids from the village on top of the cliff are having fun throwing dirt from the top. Helmet very much advised, even for belaying!
The community agreed to give 5 ETB (~25 € cents) per day per climber to Alemayu, who owns the land below the crag. Often times, it will be his young son Abebe who will come collect the money. Pleas DO NOT give money to other people but Abebe and Alemayu, in order not to disturb the relations we built with the villagers.
However, you are very welcome to participate to the economy of the village by buying some stuff at the stalls there or by ordering beer to the kids who will join you at the bottom of the cliff and who will be pleased to bring them from the village for you (you shouldn't pay more than 12 ETB / beer ). Araki also available ;)
Bolted from 2013 till today!
Access is not too obvious when going to the crag for the first time without knowing the way (some did manage to reach the crag after being lost for a long time in the bushes ;)
When coming by car (4x4 highly recommended), it is possible to park in the Kile village on top of the cliff (give a business card to one of the kids and give 5 ETB when back only to this kid with the card) then hike for 20min, or before the village and then walk through the crops (~35 min but much more pleasant hike!).
Check the topo on the FB group for more precise directions.
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