Aiguilles Dorées - Promontoire S : Sibäschläfer

Aiguilles Dorées - Promontoire S : Sibäschläfer

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Associated waypoints

View in other lang es - en

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

ED-  
7a > 6c

    II    P2  E2 

heights

elevation_min: 3000 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Ouverture : 2011.

description

Approche

  • Depuis le plateau du Trient, passer la fenêtre de Saleina et la fenêtre Suzanne. 2 h depuis la cabane de Trient, 3 h depuis la cabane d'Orny
  • Depuis le bivouac des Dorées, descendre vers le W et contourner le promontoire.
  • (Please translate to French) The final approach to the base of the wall is full of big, loose rocks and sand. Danger of rockfall. It may be easier to approach the base of the wall further to the north-west, and then follow to rockface to the beginning of this route.

Voie

(Please translate to French)
This route is located in a flat wall on the SW face of the promontoire. It is identified by a characteristic pillar starting on a big ledge half way up the wall and ending below the top of the wall with a tilted/broken tip (refer to the attached photos). This pillar is not visible from the ground directly below. The route begins where short, bent crack reaches the base of the wall right of a small ledge. A bolt 1.5m above the ground marks the start.

L1 6a+? Following the bolt placements, climb along a crack leading towards the right past a horizontal ledge spanning the entire face. Step a little to the right. The anchor is located at a crack that bends to the left, to the right of a dominant horizontal crack.
L2 6b? Continue along the bolt placements, following another crack and passing a big flake. The anchor is above this flake feature on the ledge at the base of the characteristic pillar with the broken tip.
L3 4b? Traverse on the big ledge to the left to the next anchor where several parallel vertical cracks reach the ledge. There is one bolt close to the beginning.
L4 7a Follow the bolts along some vertical cracks. About half way into the pitch start aiming a little more to the left towards a dihedral below a roof. There is the anchor.
L5 6c+ Climb up the dihedral, passing the first roof to the left into another dihedral and then onto some vertical cracks (follow the bolts) to the next anchor.
L6

Descente

En rappel.

remarks

Quelques infos et commentaires sur le forum

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Corde 2×50 m
  • Coinceurs
  • Friends C4 #0.3 > #3, doubler #0.5 > #2

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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