Aiguille de l'M : Frêtes des Charmoz

Aiguille de l'M : Frêtes des Charmoz

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

quality: medium

Rating

F+  
3b
 

heights

elevation min/max : 2450 m / 2630 m

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 550 m

description

A pleasant scramble, easily accessible from the Montenvers train station. The route takes the ridge that leads up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the L'M. It is best to ignore the faint paths that sometimes seem to bypass the difficulties, as these a "goat" paths and can be quite treacherous. The crest of the ridge gives the best climbing and is mostly on sound rock.

Approach 1 h 25

From the Montenvers station go back towards the hotel and then follow the zig-zag path up to the Forbes Signal (2198m), 45mins. Leave the main path here and make your way as best as possible to the broad, skyline ridge over boulders and grass. Follow the ridge, vague paths, to the Eric Escoffier memorial. (2450m) 40mins.

Route 2 h 30

After the memorial, the ridge narrows and is mostly made up of thin flakes. Follow this to a notch with a steep, orange wall. The route goes up on the left side, bolt, easier climbing, then a second bolt. (25m, 3b). In a short while you get to a superb, horizontal, "à cheval" flake ridge, 1 peg, 1 bolt. Easier scrambling leads to another summit with an iron cross. Continue along the ridge, choosing what you judge to be the best line until you arrive at an abseil point, (in-situ sling with metal ring). It is possible to down climb but easier to make a 10-15m abseil to easy ground. From here continue descending on the left to avoid the obvious obstacle then scramble back up the Mer de Glace side to regain the ridge. After a while the ridge becomes much broader and is made up of boulders of all sizes. Continue to the highest point, (2630m), without any more difficulties.

Descent 1 h 30 to Montenvers. 2 h 15 to Plan d'Aiguille

Continue along the line of the ridge until it is possible to make your way down on the right through the boulders to reach the path leading up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the Aig de l'M. Follow this down to the main Montenvers/Plan d'Aiguille path, (Balcon du Nord). From here either turn right to Montenvers, or left to enjoy the walk under the Aiguilles to Midi cable car mid station.

remarks

The route is not yet suffering from the "Chamonix polish" and this can make finding the best line interesting.
This also means the rock needs care in some places, though on the whole it is very good.
There is a total of about 5 pegs and 5 bolts (July 2017), plus some slings in-situ.
Superb views and normally quiet

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

30m rope, 3 quickdraws, couple of slings
Possible to place supplementary nuts / friends

external_resources

Mont Blanc Granite Vol 2 Chamonix Aiguilles, Damilano, Désécures, Laurent, 2017

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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