Grand Paradis : Gran Paradiso NW face

Grand Paradis : Gran Paradiso NW face

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Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

Map

  • Escursionista - ESC09 - Valsavarenche - Gran Paradiso
  • Escursionista - ESC10 - Valle di Cogne - Gran Paradiso
  • Escursionista - ESC14 - Valle dell'Orco - Gran Paradiso

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: corridor

quality: medium

Rating

AD  

heights

elevation min/max : 2710 m / 4061 m

height_diff_down: 1351 m

height_diff_difficulties: 550 m

difficulties_height: 3500 m

slope: 50

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

orientations

E W S N

description

  • Follow normal route from Chabod hut up to right side of face by cairns and tracks. Trails, rocks, glacier with crevasses.
  • Turn left at right side of face. Ascent slope to approach Bergschrund, going around some impressive crevasses.
  • Cross Bergschrund, preferably under line of climb along left rock band. Beware everything right of that may be plagued by rock fall, as is apparent by rocks and tracks on the snow.
  • Climb up along the rock band. At the end of that the slope eases off a bit into a quite long run out. It can be beneficial to get up the snow face above the right hand serac, which at some point is a bit less steep.
  • All slopes end on the same snow ridge.
  • Follow the ridge, ending on fairly easy rocks.
  • Scramble over the rocks, passing the true summit (marked by a small plaque), ending above a small headwall opposite of Maria's summit tower.
  • Climb off left side and get over to right side foot of Maria's tower.
  • Climb up knotted fixed rope to Maria's statue.
  • Follow normal route down, either back to the Chabod hut, or to the Emanuele hut, which has no crevasses but is longer and has several awkward passages.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Glacier.
  • Ice climbing.

external_resources

This webcam at Chabod is pointed right at the face, and gives an impression of current conditions. But beware it can be misleading, it is advisable to call Chabod too. http://www.rifugiochabod.com/webcam/meteoeye.jpg

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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