Pic de Jallouvre : Les Miss

Pic de Jallouvre : Les Miss

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

AD+  
5c > 5a+A0

    I    P1  E1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1550 m / 1950 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

difficulties_height: 1600 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

J-F Exertier, O Marchandé, 2014

description

A pleasant route, a bit like the Voie des Cristaux but with technically harder climbing. The climbing gets interesting after pitch 7.
There are 15 pitches but not sustained. You need at least 5hrs if you pitch it

Access

Park at the quarry just below the Col de la Colombière on the Grand Bornard side.

Approach 15min

Go W for several metres , then go up to the right, faint path, to reach a grassy slope. The route starts to the left of some small caves at a slab with a bolt. There are the words "voie des cristaux" in red, (almost faded away).
Pitches 1-4 are common with the Voie des Cristaux, going up slaps interspersed with grassy ledges.
Route
P1| 4c | 50m | Straight up the slab with a short step at the top
P2 | 3b | 40m | Easy angled slab.
P3 | 2c | 30m | Go up easily to the foot of a pinnacle, where there is a belay.
P4 | 4b | 45m | Climb the pinnacle, then an easy angled slab.
Link: Go straight up for about 100m, then before the vertical rock bands, follow a faint path to the left, through a grassy break, for 50m. The route goes up a large, white slab. The bolts are not easy to spot but there is a little blue sign "Les Miss".
P5 | 4a | 45m | Easy angled slab then two vertical steps, the second being longer.
P6 | 3c | 45m | Long easy angled slab.
P7 | 5b | | Climb a rock step, then traverse diagonally leftwards across slabs to a chimney in the next vertical step.
P8 | 5b | | Wide chimney, then a long slab.
P9 | 5a+ | | Nice wall with a steep, juggy start, then slab climbing to the next vertical step.
P10 | 5c | | A steep and sustained slab, before it gets easier. .
P11 | 4a | 16m | A slab, not steep, but smooth. A short pitch.
P12| 5a | | Slab then a rock step on the left.
Link: Traverse the grassy steps to the right for about 20m, (1 bolt in a slab above the easiest line), to reach a nice slab . The Voie des Cristaux is very close to the right, one can see the bolts.
P13 | 5b | | Nice, sustained slab trending slightly to the left.
P14 | 5b | | To the right of the belay, climb an awkward chimney for several metres then easier angled climbing to a comfortable stance.
Link traverse, (walking) to the overhanging hollow just right of a vague spur. Blue sign "Les MIss"
P15 | 5b | 50m | The start of the spur is very steep but well protected, (good exercise in bridging.) This can be avoided on the left, before traversing back to the third bolt, 4c
From here it is possible to continue by the Bouquetins Ridge to the summit of Jallouvre (makes for a long day.).

Descent 45min

The descent path from the Via Ferrata is 2m from the last belay. Follow this to the right. (Careful the cables are removed in winter, usually from the end of October.) Follow the Jallouvre path back to the parking. .

remarks

Not particularly difficult, with the sections of 5 not sustained.
Well bolted. Bring slings to link the belay points.
The 2017 Bornes Aravis guidebook indicates a direct, independent start to the left of the first 4 pitches of the "Voie des Cristaux".

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

1×50 m rope, 11 quick draws, slings

external_resources

Bornes Aravis, Giles Brunot, Ekiproc, 2017

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