Lames Fontaine : Voie Abert

Lames Fontaine : Voie Abert

{{detailsCtrl.documentService.document.associations.images[0].locales[0].title}}

Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge

quality: draft

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5c

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2317 m / 2750 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 2550 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 250 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the Plan de l'Aiguille, (mid station Aig du Midi,) follow the path which passes to the N of Lac Bleu, then contour to reach the Blaitière glacier. Continue contouring, (the glacier is covered in large boulders at this height,) heading for the high moraine to the left of the “Pilier Rouge de Blaitière”, at a point a little to the left of where it starts to steepen. Some cairns mark the way. In order to avoid crevassed zones, do not go too high or too low. Go up the moraine by veering around to the left, (cairns) to gain a large cwm which you traverse to the right to bypass the lames, (blades of rock). The start is 20m to the right of a gap, (cracks).
The route starts up the centre of the first buttress to follow the logical line of the ridge.

Route

Choose one of the cracks to start climbing to the top of the first pinnacle (3-4 pitches) and then follow the line of pinnacles, (some abseils,) to an obvious notch. From here you can continue for a few more pitches.
To be completed

Descent

Make a couple of abseils off the back of the last buttress and then scramble back down to the notch. From here make either 2 abseils to the west or four abseils to the east.

remarks

  • Gets the sun by 11am.
  • Quite a long route (4-5 hrs) with lots of rope work.
  • Beautiful ridge, partially bolted, (70 bolts nonetheless!). Some 19 pitches, mostly short.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Friends, nuts and slings. 2×25 m rope, or a 50m rope

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

{{::post['created_at'] | amUtc | amLocal | amTimeAgo}}
  • de
  • it
  • ca
  • eu
  • es