Brévent : La Somone

Brévent : La Somone

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: medium

Rating

D-  
5a > 5aA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2300 m / 2525 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

description

An easy route, very well equipped, possible to escape easily at every pitch, perfect for beginners and a fun day out.

Approach

From Planpraz (25mins)

Identify the Clocher du Brévent (obvious rock spire). Take the main path that goes to the Brevent and after the first series of hairpins, while on a long traverse, climb up to the left to a rock spur (same level as the Clocher and to the left of it).

From the Brevent (15mins)

Descend the piste, pass through the gap and locate on the left a series of rock buttresses, (the route). You get to the lowest buttress by traversing in from the second hairpin. Attention, the large spire on the right is the Clocher, climbed by "Crakoukass". "La Somone" starts higher up and to left, looking upwards, of a dry stone wall.

Route

"La Somone" - Brévent
"La Somone" - Brévent

The route is not on the main Brevent cliff but on a series of buttresses to the E, with the possibility to easily regain the footpath between each. The bolts are easily seen and there is an old, greying sling, knotted through a drilled hole in the rock, at the start. The route exits at the top of the Brevent "ecole d’escalade" by the W ridge on the sector well to the left of the breche, (looking upwards).

First buttress

L1 4b Slab, belay at the top of a wall. Walk a few metres left to another belay at the foot of a corner, (escape possible.)

Second buttress

L2 4c Pleasant chimney corner. Belay at a terrace.
L3 4a Friction traverse on a ridge with a belay at the end using a bolt and a rock spike (sling needed.)
Walk 4-5 m to the next buttress, (escape possible).
###Third buttress
L4 5a Slab then a crack, exiting to the right and belaying on the summit of the spire
10m abseil from the summit, on the other side. Walk to the left to find the next pitch, (not totally evident,) on another wall (escape possible).
###Fourth Buttress
L5 4c Crack, belay at the top of the wall.
From here continue in the line of the route by easy scrambling to the flat area at the "ecole d’escalade" at the same level as the gap through which the Brevent piste/footpath passes. Cross the piste and continue leftwards to the line of bolts furthest left on this part of the cliff and before a path leading up leftwards to harder routes.
###Fifth Buttress
L6 4c Belay at a little ledge on the face
L7 4b then 3b Belay at the top of the face.

Descent

From the last belay the Brévent is 5mins walk away or walk back down the main path to Planpraz.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 8 quickdraws, slings, helmet, 40m rope

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