Aiguille de Charlanon : Arête du doigt

Aiguille de Charlanon : Arête du doigt


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: loop
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: medium


5b > 5a

    II    P2 


elevation min/max : 2549 m / 2549 m

height_diff_up: 350 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m




T Renault Sept 2005



From Planpraz, mid-station of the Brevent lift, follow the 4x4 track. Do not continue along it towards "Charlanon", but take a left turn on the path towards the « Lacs Noirs, Lac Cornu». After 30-35 mins of walking along this path identify the left most spur, (and also the one that starts highest above the path) with a gully to the left of it. (It is also possible to see the two SSE spurs, the right and the left ones.) You reach the foot of the route by going up the boulder field and steep grass to a corner in the gully. 20-25mins from the path. The first pitch starts at the foot of a thin slab(bolt, make Fixe). (GPS UTM 32 T 0333359 5090860)


L1 5b 43m Slabs, with a couple of steep moves, with 6 bolts, 3 pegs and placements for smallish friends, (or nuts. bolts but cracks for nuts etc.
L2 5b 33m Pleasant chimney corner, with some pegs and bolts.
L3 2 An easy horizontal ridge, climbed mostly on the right, then up on the left before coming back right to a bolt belay
L4 4a Slab, then easier to the belay.
L5 4c Pleasant climbing to the right of the ridge, and little pinnacle, some pegs and bolts, then up a vegetated corner to the belay.
(Over on the left is a superb looking crack with a bolt belay at its foot and a few bolts higher up, 6a+?)
L6 5a The best line is not obvious and it is possible to avoid the difficulties by keeping to the right. Belay at the foot of a corner.
L7 5b The corner then step left onto a steep slab, up this to easier ground and a 2 bolt belay high up on the left.

After a couple of metres of easy climbing, and one more bolt, you will see the summit.


From the summit the easiest way down is to go to the Brevent, though this means not leaving the sacs at the foot of the route. Alternatively, go NE along the ridge to the true summit of the Aig du Charlanon, some cairns, plus a cairn on the summit. Go NW a few metres then descend by a faint path on the right, some cairns and red marks to a little col, (some exposed downclimbing right at the end.) Go straight across the col and continue along the faint path (cairns,red marks and even some black pipes,) which basically follows the line of the ridge descending from the Aig to the col du Lac Cornu. Just before the col the faint path turns to the right to descend directly to the Lac Cornu path, 1hr. Follow the Lac Cornu path back to Planpraz (50mins.)


• The route is only partially equipped. Some lichen and vegetation adds to the “adventure” of the route.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


A selection of nuts and friends.


Mont Blanc Classic and Plaisir Rosselli 2012


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