Traversée Aiguille N >> Lée Blanche >> Dôme des Glaciers

Traversée Aiguille N >> Lée Blanche >> Dôme des Glaciers

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut, traverse
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss
configuration: edge, face

quality: fine

Download track as

Rating

AD     III    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 1170 m / 3892 m

height_diff: +1500 m / -3000 m

slope: 40-45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

orientations

E W S N

description

This route traverses most of the ridges of the left bank of the Tré-la-Tête cwm. It is a good alternative to the Domes de Miage, though a little harder and a lot longer!

Approach

From the Conscrits hut follow the Domes de Miage route until the Col Infranchissable plateau

Route

Ascent of the Aiguille N de Tré la Tête
Go obliquely rightwards to the N face of the Tré-la-Tête. Pass to the left of the large serac which blocks the foot of the face (also possible to go to the right but this is steeper and more exposed.) Climb up the glacier and then at about 3700m cross a bergschrund and gain the ridge which is followed to the summit, (steep about 45º).
Traverse to the Dôme des Glaciers
From the Aiguille N, 2 alternatives:
Traditional alternative(
As written in the Vallot guide : gain the Aiguille Centrale NW then as best as you can traverse the other two Aiguilles, before backtracking to find a descent on the vague SW ridge of the Aiguille Centrale NW (!?)
Modern alternative
Follow the ridge for a few dozen metres then descend steeply to the right down a snow gully (40-45°) which leads to the suspended glacier. Go S across the glacier, passing by the foot of the Aiguille Centrale NW to reach the Lée Blanche glacier.
At about 3500m turn sharply to the W to gain, via a short slope (bergschrund), the col indicated at 3569m to the S of the Col de Tré-la-Tête. Follow the ridge to the S: traverse the Aiguille de la Lée Blanche, the N shoulder of the Aiguille des Glaciers, and reach the Dôme des Glaciers. Sections of mixed or rocks depending on the amount of snow.

Descent

From the Dôme des Glaciers, follow the snow dome then the rocky or mixed ridge which leads to the Col des Glaciers. From there go NW on a glacier which allows one to descend onto the Tré-la-Tête glacier (not pleasant at the end of the season, with a risk of stonefall on the true left bank.)
Gain the true right bank of the Tré-la-Tête glacier in order to pass the Tré-la-Grande seracs (not always possible, depending on the state of the glacier?) From there you are back on the approach route from the hut.

remarks

It is never difficult but very long! You need good snow conditions that allow for quick progress. Check out first the state of the descent from the Col des Glaciers.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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