Dalle de l'Amône : Voie Darbellay

Dalle de l'Amône : Voie Darbellay

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

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Rating

TD-  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1537 m / 1915 m

height_diff: +450 m / -450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 310 m

difficulties_height: 1600 m

orientations

E W S N

description

A very special route in a superb setting, made famous as one of Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes.

Approach 5-10min

One kilometre before La Fouly, turn off for L'Amônaz. Cross the bridge (Dranse de Ferret) and park either next to the bridge or a little higher up at a bit of landfill. The face is easily reached from the parking. The start is at the right side of the face, a few dozen metres above the lowest point. The first bolt is next to a good ledge, reachable by a fixed rope.

Route

P1 4a A short pitch, straight up.
P2 5a Continue straight up.
P3 5b Continue straight up then a little traverse to the left at the end.
P4 5b Go up several metres to the first bolt concealed in a little niche, then up trending leftwards.
P5 5c From the belay go to the clearly visible bolt on the right, then straight up, then trend slightly to the left.
P6 6a Climb the corner/gully for about 10m to a bolt. then up leftwards, over two step steps. Belay at the higher point on the left.
P7 6a Go up a little to the left then climb up the slabs, trending rightwards, Belay at the foot of an obvious little chimney.
P8 5c Pleasant chimney then an easier slab.
P9 5c Start off to the left, follow a filled crack and climb the chimney to a belay in a niche.
P10 5b Very nice steep crack on zig-zag, with a thin finish.
P11 5b A strenuous start up a large flake then a chimney. At the first loose blocks go to the right to the belay. (Attention with the rock for the parties below.)
P12 5b Follow the general line of the ridge, turning the steepest part on the right, (again care not to dislodge any loose rocks.)
Variants
P5 6a From the belay go up the slab on the left (fairly exposed, bolt visible at about 8m.) Rejoin the "normal" route after about 15m.
P6 6a Go up the corner chimney for about 10m to a bolt. Then go up the slab on the right. Make a belay on the right, (the lowest one); by traversing upwards to the left you reach the stance on the "normal" route.
P7 6a Continue straight up by following the bolts on the right. Belay at the foot of an obvious chimney.
Escape Option
At P6, follow the ledge to the right.

Descent 50min

Follow easily the path well equipped with chains, gloves advisable, awkward if damp.

remarks

A great classic, feeling committing as the bolts well spaced. (The first ascent was done with zero pegs!)
Very popular due to its easy access and the quality of the climbing.
Avoid if there is a risk of storm or if there is still snow on the face.
Attention: Since a landslide, some unstable blocks are jammed in the exit chimney. It is therefore highly recommended to exit by the 12 pitch, (bolted) up the ridge, taking care not to loosen any stones onto the parties below.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

1×50 m rope, 10 quickdraws
Gloves for the descent

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