Aiguille de la Glière : Oraison

Aiguille de la Glière : Oraison

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c > 5bA0

    II    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2380 m / 2836 m

height_diff_up: 450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 450 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift go the direction of the col de la Gliere. Traverse by a little path underneath the Index to a niche and descend a steep gully onto a scree slope. Go slightly up another gully as for the classic South Ridge of the Gliere, then quickly to the left by some grassy ledges. 2 routes start here. Go to the furthest on the left to spot the first bolt.

Route

L1 5b Pegs and bolts : Go straight up and then slightly to the left to come back right onto the line of the pillar.
L2 5a Pegs and bolts: climb up the line of the pillar
L3 4 Pegs and bolts + a sling: Follow the line of the pillar then down climb a few metres to a niche.
L4 5a Pegs and bolts: Traverse 5m to the left, then go straight up and parallel to the Normal Route.
L5 5a Peg (rusted) and bolts: Ascend to the left then join the crest of the ridge, and the normal route, to belay with slings.
Now walk 50m along ledges rising to the left (1 bolt near the start hidden in a corner)) towards the south face. Traverse a gully to a belay.
Be careful not to knock off any stones onto anybody lower down on the Portes de Chapelle.
L6 5c (+?) Pegs and bolts: Straight up a superb, steep slab 50m
L7 5b Pegs and bolts: Start on the left, good slab climbing
L8 4 Pegs and bolts: Start by ascending to the left, for 50m, towards the final wall. Use the right most belay
L9 5b (5c?) Pegs and bolts: Very nice slab
L10 5a Pegs and bolts: Onto the summit (care with the rock.)

Descent

Foresee 50-60min to return to the chairlift.

Descend towards the Chapelle, several moves of 3. Then follow the descent path to col de l'Index. Descend the gully, which leads to a 27m abseil, (just possible with a 50m rope) or down climb at grade 3.

remarks

• Faces south, catches the sun.
• Basically the rock is good but some loose holds and slippery lichen.
• A varied route, fairly long, mostly on slabs
• Great view of the Rasoir to the right, the Aiguille Pourrie to the left and the Mont-Blanc behind

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

The route is equipped with FIXE hangers throughout and several pegs.
Some nuts and small friends could be useful if you are worried about the distance between bolts.

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