Aiguille du Génépi (Argentière) : S-ridge

Aiguille du Génépi (Argentière) : S-ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5b > 5b

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2771 m / 3059 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 2890 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The classic of the sector, pleasing and varied, on a high mountain cliff with just a few pegs but easy to protect. The first two pitches are reasonably sustained at 5c/b. The last two pitches are more impressive than difficult, with a airy "râteau de chèvre”, (large rock flake)

Approach 20 min

From the hut follow the yellow markings near the water pipe. Do not go towards the moraine but follow one of the many paths up through the boulders, to reach to foot of the face (to the E of the Aiguille du Refuge).
Start at a crack at the left end of the face , directly beneath a little overhang. (tatty sling at 5m)

Route

L1 25m 5c A crack then a traverse right on undercuts, (5b) to an awkward shallow groove, 1 peg. Belay on a ledge
L2 25m 5a Traverse 5m to the left then climb a crack, 5a, belay on a terrace under a roof
L3 35m 4c Go 2m to the right then straight up, (passing to the right of the overhang), belay on a ledge
L4 45m 3 Easy steps, belay just below the ridge.
L5 10m 3 Easy up to a ledge with 2 bolts, junction with the route "Un éclat de rire"
L6 45m 5c Start on the right then back to gain the cracks in the slab, peg visible at 5m. Bolt belay on a ledge. (Ignore possible belay at mid height).
L7 20m 5a Up a crack to a flake and descend a wide crack on the other side to a gap
L8 20m 4a Climb up to the flake, ("râteau de chèvre"), traverse this to get behind it and descend round a corner to a ledge and abseil point.

Descent 30 min

  • Abseil 22m on the N side to a gap, then by a little gully before traversing left along ledges on the side facing the Améthystes to regain the foot of the face.
  • Escape possible from the 5th or 6th belay by 3 or 4 abseils down the E face, then ledges. This brings you down, 10m to the right of the start.

remarks

  • The rock dries quickly, climbable most of the year (with the right gear)

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