Aiguille du Génépi (Argentière) : S-ridge

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Location

Location

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 2771 m / 3059 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 2890 m

Rating

Rating

D  
5b > 5b

    II    P2 

gear

gear

glacier_gear: no

orientations

orientations

image/svg+xml N NE NW SE SW S E W

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description


The classic of the sector, pleasing and varied, on a high mountain cliff with just a few pegs but easy to protect. The first two pitches are reasonably sustained at 5a/b. The last two pitches are more impressive than difficult, with a airy « râteau de chèvre”, (flake of rock used for the hands with the feet in opposition.)

Approach # 15 min

From the hut follow the water pipe. Do not go towards the moraine but climb up amongst the boulders, keeping to the left at the end, to reach to foot of the face (to the E of the Aiguille du Refuge).
Start at a crack on the left of the face , directly beneath a little overhang.

Route

L# | 40m | 5a A crack with 1 move of 5b to get past the corner (to the right), belay on a ledge
L# | 40m | 4c Traverse 5 to 6m to the left then climb a crack, 5a, belay on a terrace under a roof
L# | 40m | 4c Go 2 m to the right then straight up, (passing to the right of the overhang), belay on a ledge
L# | >50m | 3 Easy steps, belay on a ledge behind a large boulder ; junction with the route "Un éclat de rire"
L# | 50m | 5a The obvious crack, airy, possible belay at mid height (2 pegs), otherwise bolt belay on a ledge
L# | 20m | 4a Hand traverse the flake (« râteau de chèvre”), get behind it and descend to a ledge and belay

Descent # 30 min

  • Abseil 25m on the N side to a gap, then by the ledges on the side facing the Améthystes to regain the foot of the face.
  • Escape possible from the 6th belay by 2 abseils down the E face, then ledges. This brings you down, 10m to the right of the start.

remarks

  • The rock dries quickly, climbable most of the year (with the right gear)

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