Matterhorn : Lion ridge

View in other lang fr - it

Information

General

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: fine

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 4478 m / 4478 m

height_diff_up: 649 m

height_diff_difficulties: 649 m

Rating

Rating

AD  
5b > 5a

    III    P2 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 283 - Arolla
  • Swisstopo - 1347 - Matterhorn
  • Escursionista - ESC07 - Valtournenche - Monte Cervino

Licence

Licence

description

Approach

From Cervinia (2095m), reach the Abruzzi hut (also called Riondé), at 2802m and then the Carrel hut (3829m). Getting there is a worthwhile endeavour in itself. The cable-car offers a less tiring alternative!

The climb# 4-5h from Carrel

Lion ridge on the right
Lion ridge on the right

From the Carrel hut, the first fixed ropes (corde de l'éveil) allow easy progress before dawn breaks. After the ropes, rise up towards the right, following the "cleanest" terrain (i.e. cleaned by the numerous climbers) and the abundant recent fixed anchors (bolts).

Reach a metal cable that leads to a snow or ice slope called the Linceul and climb it by its W edge. After some easy climbing, reach the Tyndall rope that takes you to the ridege at aprox. 4080m. The climb up to Tyndall peak (4241m) follows the ridge with some sections on its N side (many fixed anchors show the route to follow).

From Tyndall peak, follow the ridge down towards the step (l'enjambée) over a narrow breach that separates the ridge from the summit of the Matterhorn.

Once on the other side, easy climbing leads to the last fixed ropes and the Jordan ladder. The Pirovano rope makes the last difficulties easier to overcome before you reach the Italian summit (4476m) and its huge metal cross. From the Italian summit, follow the summit ridge to the Swiss summit, the highest at 4478m.

Descent:

Follow the same route down. Don't be fooled into thinking it will take less time…

gear

Make sure you take carabiners with large openings. The fixed rope anchors are rather large.

route_history

Jeau Baptiste Bich, Jean Antoine Carrel, 17 july 1865.

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

  • es
  • ca
  • eu
  • de