Brévent : Poème à Lou

Brévent : Poème à Lou

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD+  
6c > 6a+

  A0    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2300 m / 2525 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 220 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 20mins

From the top station of the Brevent cable car, descend the track taken by the ski piste, through the gap and then follow a faint path on the right, looking down, over boulders. This descends a steep gully under the main face of the Brevent before traversing horizontally to a worn, fixed rope and the start of the route. The start is indicated with a rusty sign, slightly up in the rocks, with the name of the route.

Route

L1 6a+ Slab with a variety of small holds, sustained and technical, (45m from the sign)
L2 6b Same style of climbing only a little harder and steeper, finishing with a traverse to the left. (40m)
L3 6b+ Climbs a small roof, the last moves being the hardest. (30m)
L4 6c>6aA0 Traverse to the left to reach a corner (6c or a fixed rope for 4m, check rope for wear! (Take a length of 5m of 9mm if you are not climbing 6c in case it needs replacing.) 50m approx.
L5 5c Easier slabs, following the line of the ridge, with some lichen. (50m)

Descent

Walk up to the cable car, 3mins...

remarks

• A sustained route.
• The gradings given here are higher (by a half) than those given in the Piola guidebook
• Take care to check the wear of the fixed ropes, (on the approach and on pitch 4.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

• A 50 metre rope is enough
• 14 quickdraws for pitch 4,

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