Aiguille de Mesure : Doigt de Mesure, voie "Les noces d'étain"

Aiguille de Mesure : Doigt de Mesure, voie "Les noces d'étain"

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD  
6a > 5cA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1461 m / 2732 m

height_diff_up: 1300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 330 m

difficulties_height: 2430 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 2h30

From the parking at the Col de Montets

From the parking (1461 m) take the path going to the Lac de la Remuaz (marked as "Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc" on the IGN map). You reach a plateau with some ruins, above which there is a gorge with waterfalls.
- 1st possibility : Find a way up the gorge with some steep sections between large boulders. There are cairns at the top.
- 2nd possibility : It is easier if you leave the path further along, at 2060m by a little lake. A very faint path climbs up through the shrubs then go up obliquely to the N to pass near to the Lac de la Remuaz and, a little further up, join the route marked by cairns.

You are in an area of little cwms dominated by the Aiguille de l'Encrenaz : make your way (cairns), direction NW, to get to the Combe de l'Encrenaz (you pass under a rocky ridge). Cross to the other side of the combe to climb up a grassy slope with large boulders, to the right of screes coming down from the l'Aiguille de Mesure (cairns.) Go along the base of the cliff to the W until a large boulder, with a natural shelter. The start is some metres opposite the boulder up a nice slab with the first bolt at 6m.

From the parking just above Le Buet

Just before you arrive at Le Buet, (coming from Chamonix), there is a horizontal forest track on the left that leads to the Cascade de Berard. Park the car here and follow this track for about 4-500m. Take a narrow path on the left (signposted "Praz Torrent"), sadly only visible when you come right up to it. This path leads to the Tête de Praz Torrent (1803m). Continue towards the rock spires of the same name, then leave the path at a large block with a cairn at its side to go leftwards into the Combe de l'Encrenaz in the direction of the col of the same name. Make your way up (cairns and chamois tracks) until the foot of the route, (cliff on your right.)

Route

L1 5b : Slab slanting to the left
L2 5c : Follow up leftwards, then a little roof just before the belay
L3 5a : Continue traversing to the left, to gain a large ledge by easy steps
L4 5a : Nice slab not difficult, then a zone of large blocks with some vegetation.
L5 5c : Steep wall with large holds, then a nice slab. Watch out for rope drag
L6 5c : Cross a little gap to the left and climb a very steep slab
L7 5b : A steep bulge is just above the belay. Traverse to the left under this bulge on a slab.
L8 6a : A slightly strenuous corner for several metres, then exit on a slab to the right
L9 6a : Some easy moves just to a delicate bulge then obliquely to the right (5c with one 6a move)
L10 5b : Get to the foot of the final face, climb a little spur and belay at the foot of a corner crack. (1 bolt and 1 peg in the depths of the crack with sling around a large spike to the left.)
L11 5c : Follow the crack at the back of the corner and exit where possible by a nice slab move on the right. Come back leftwards to reach the top of the route.

Descent

In 8 abseils down the route. The first abseil is from B11 to B9. The third abseil is a little to the right to go from B8 to B6, The seventh abseil under the large ledge is short and one can go to the left to an abseil point in the middle of a slab. Be careful not to miss it, it can be easily spotted from the foot of the route
Since Autumn 2010: alternative 7th abseil: From the ledge traverse leftwards to the top of pitch 3 and use a new abseil point in the line of the route, to reach B1 then the start of the route.

remarks

Faces south, sun all day
Good rock (gneiss). The route goes up the best of the rock.
Bolted, sometimes well spaced especially the first pitch The abseils are from metal rings.
Foresee a full day because of the long approach.
Some new routes were bolted in this area in Autumn 2010

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

8 quickdraws, helmet, 50x2 rope, some long slings to equalize the belays. No real need for nuts.

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