Le Catogne - La Dyure : La Dyure - Éperon du Dard

Le Catogne - La Dyure : La Dyure - Éperon du Dard

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1325 - Sembrancher
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5b > 5aA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1320 m / 1700 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

difficulties_height: 1350 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Route opened in 2006 by J. Morelli and O. Roduit

description

Approach 20 mins

From below Champex d'Bas park the car just above the hairpin before the first houses, (Orange sign 114 (1) and yellow footpath signs. 46°02.946'N 7°05.305'E) Follow the track from the hairpin, which gradually descends, for about 5 mins to another footpath sign. Take the right fork up a steep path, signposted La Catogne. After just 100m there is a cairn with another cairn horizontally to the left, indicating a faint path. Go along this, (more or less horizontally,) following red paint marks and cairns until after 10-15 mins it reaches the foot of the climb after a short scramble, (first bolt visible.)

Route

L1 5b An energetic warm-up
L2 5b With awkward move around a rib near a tree
L3 5a
L4 4b Full 50m, may have to move together to reach belay
L5 4a Another full 50m, may have to move together to reach belay
L6 5a
L7 4c
L8 5a
L9 5b A couple of awkward little chimneys
L10 4b
L11 5a

Descent 1.5h

From the top of the climb continue going upwards for about 10 minutes following red paint marks and cairns. At a large red paint mark 20cms long and 4cms high, the path starts to traverse right and soon comes to a old fallen tree, which hides the original path. Stay below this tree, (cairn) and follow it rightwards to its roots. Then climb down to cross a gully and follow the paint marks and cairns to eventually reach the summit of the « Moments authentiques » (another route, TD+), The path is slightly more obvious but care is still needed, (serious drop off to the right). Continue until you finally reach a broader, grassy gully and the main path leading up to La Catogne, (faint red and white markings.) Go down this passing the turn off cairn for the the approach and so finally back to the car.

remarks

  • Each belay has at least 2 bolts and a comfortable stance.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 50m rope
  • 10 quickdraws

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