Parete dei Titani : Genepi

Parete dei Titani : Genepi

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1365 - Grand-St-Bernard
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

D+  
5c > 5bA0

    I  X1    P1+  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1780 m / 2270 m

height_diff_up: 490 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 2070 m

Access

height_diff_access: 290 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Recently some extra bolting has taken place leading to potential confusion.

366881

Approach 40 min

From Arnuva (Arp Nouva) follow the track leading to the Dalmazzi hut, cross the river, climb up a steep escarpment and follow the path on the moraine for 10 minutes. There is a huge buttress on the right, easily identifiable by 50 to 60m of slabs leading up to very large overhang. The route « Genepi 1 » is to the right of this on the other side of a broken rocky buttress capped with a grass slope. Go up rightwards underneath the buttress on loose scree/boulders, (faint track some cairns) to cut back above a large embedded boulder, level with the grass slope mentioned earlier . The route starts up easy angled, whitish, waterworn slabs between a large crack on the left and a smaller one on the right, (easily seen from the approach path.) The first bolt is at about 8m, where the slabs start to steepen. Once the start is found, just follow the bolts.

Route

L1 5c Follow the bolts on the right, (ignore the bolt over on the left near the crest.) A difficult move just before the belay is avoidable by stepping to the right, (if dry). Traverse back left immediately afterwards in order not to miss the belay.
L2 5a Slabs
L3 5a Slabs
L4 5b Steepens to give good climbing on blackish rock. Belay on the left.
L5 4b Easy with two grassy sections.
L6 5b+ The left hand line of bolts gives easier climbing (5a).
L7 4c Follow the left hand line of bolts up the slab to the grass at the top of the buttress.

The last two pitches were shared with Genepi 2, which starts 50m to the left at the left hand end of the slab under the obvious overhang. An independent, parallel line has now been bolted

Descent

Abseil down the route

remarks

In the sun after nine o’clock

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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