Pointe Farrar : Claire Chazal

Pointe Farrar : Claire Chazal


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: goulotte

quality: medium


D+   4    II 


elevation min/max : 3160 m / 3660 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 500 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




First Ascent: Arnaud Boudet, Antoine Cayrol and David Ravanel,18 décembre 1993.


This magnificent gully is on the NE side of the Grand Montets ridge, before the Cordier Couloir. Very accessible from the Gd Montets lift,

Approach 30 min to 1h00 on foot, 10 min with skis

From the top station of the Grands Montets, go down the piste for 100m and go along to the right underneath the Grand Montets ridge until directly below the col between the Aiguille Carrée and the Pointe Farrar.


Overcome the bergshrund , often on the left, certically below the "Farraon" gully, in-situ belay.

L1 55m Belay true right Snow slope which is traversed to the right to reach the line of the gully.
L2 60m Belay true right Snow, with depending on the conditions one or two steeper steps of mixed.
L3 60m Belay true left Short ice step then a snow slope.
L4 60m Snow slope with the belayat the foot of the mixed section.
L5 60m Belay true left Mixed trending to the left to reach the foot of a corner.
L6 30m Belay at the exit Climb the corner, there is a good friend placement on the left to protect the exit.
L7 60m Belay true left A move of mixed to leave the belay, then traverse the snow rightwards to a belay at the foot of an ice wall. Intermediate belay possible.
L8 60m Belay true left Wall at 80/85° for about 15m then snow leading up to the right, with one or two ice steps, depending on conditions.
End of the difficulties, one can continue for 3 or 4 pitches (mixed then snow) to reach the col. Abseil points at 60m intervals.
Abseil down the route


No sun on the face until the ridge.
A fairly long route if you go all the way to the ridge.
An obvious and varied gully

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


60m abseil ropes recommended
Selection of small and medium sized friends
Cord and maillons to replace the abseil points



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