Vallon de Bérard : L'île aux Razmokets

Vallon de Bérard : L'île aux Razmokets

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

D  
5c > 5bA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1360 m / 1981 m

height_diff_up: 621 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 30mins

Coming from the Col de Montets, park up a track on the left some 500 metres before Le Buet. (Parking on the right a little further on also possible.) Follow the broad track to the Cascade de Berard and then continue along a path on the true right bank of the torrent until a new bridge. At the bridge keep to the same side taking a faint path on the left which climbs through a thicket, (megaphorbiaie for the botanists,) and so up to the foot of the slab.

Route:

There is a first bolt in the rock, ignore it. Continue a little up an easy ramp (stepped) to the right of a large slab. Locate a chimney/crack equipped with bolts.

L1 4b Easy up stepped chimneys to gain a rock spike on the left.
L2 5c Make a long, rising traverse using a system of cracks, with friction moves and side holds.
L3 5c Straight up and then traverse to the right on over chipped holds to the next belay.
L4 4b
L5 5c Straight up and then the slab on the left. Over chipped holds just before the belay.
L6 4c
L7 5a A succession of flakes, very pleasant.
L8 4a

A walk to the next section

L9 4c
L10 5b
L11 4c
L12 5b

Descent

In 10 abseils of 50 metres. (first and last abseils require the full 50m.)
Miss out belays 9, 5 and 1.

remarks

Shame about the “modified holds” on pitches 3 and 5. If you do not use them then the grade is 6a/6a+.
If it is not completely dry, stop after pitch 7.
The sun arrives on the face only at midday.
The rock dries only slowly after rain.
The route is well bolted and so ideal for people wanting to gain confidence in leading longer routes. The belays are especially well equipped.
Fairly varied climbing with slabs, cracks, traverses, good holds….a bit of everything.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

13 quickdraws
2×50 m ropes
helmet

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