Pointes de la Blonnière : L'Arête à Marion

Pointes de la Blonnière : L'Arête à Marion

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3531OT - Megève - Col des Aravis

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: fine

Rating

AD-  
4c > 4aA0

    II    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1476 m / 2369 m

height_diff_up: 893 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 2050 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

First done by Michel Poencet and friend, without a rope.
Route bolted, (from below) 2001 by Chatenay, J.F. Exertier, F. Goutard, T. Guinot, D. Meynet et J.M. Thomet.

description

An enjoyable route that has good in-situ protection. A classic at this grade. Great views of Mont Blanc.

Approach 1h30

Topo : Pointes de la Blonnière, approach to the arête à Marion
Topo : Pointes de la Blonnière, approach to the arête à Marion

From the Col de Aravis, (main car parking) go SW to the farm 300m away. By pass it on the right and follow a very faint path through the fields behind. Continue upwards, trending slightly rightwards, until you reach a path which starts at a cairn on top of a boulder. The path goes slightly to the right then goes up the bed of the torrent descending from the "combe à Marion". The path again goes diagonally rightwards in line with a vertical cliff, to by pass a slabby mound. Then follow a weakness in these slabs horizontally back to the left to the start of the route. This can be recognised by a belay with two bolts at the foot of an easy angled slab with runnels and more bolts above.

Route

L1 3b Slab and broad groove
L2 4a Start slightly to the right
L3 4c>4aA0 Chimney. Short section (<3m) with bolts every 1m.
Walking with grassy and easy slabs to reach the start of the ridge proper.
The route now follows the crest of the ridge, bolts indicating the way.
L4 3a
L5 3a
L6 4a Start to the left of the ridge
L7 4a
L8 2c
L9 2c
L10 3a
L11 3b
L12 4a
L13 4c

Descent

From the summit go straight down the slope on the right, NW, cairns, towards a small col between the Dent du Chatelet (2356m) and the Pointe Blonnière (2369m). Then go to the right between two large boulders, climb down a little ravine, initially on the true left, (2 bolts, the first with a bit of tat,) then the right bank (2 bolts.) Go down the scree in the cwm to reach the start of the climb and the approach route.

remarks

The ascent and descent of the scree is awkward. Careful if descending in the mist.
The limestone is generally very good, though less so in the last quarter of the route.
The route should take about 2h30, though is very popular so may take longer. (5-6hrs car to car.)
Escape possible to the right after pitch 3 after pitches 10 and 11.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Rope min 20m if moving together, min 40m if you pitch it.
Crampons and ice axe at the beginning of the season.
Practical footwear for the descent, (the route should go in boots for most people.)

external_resources

Climber Magazine Sept 2014

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