Barberine : Vipère au pied

Barberine : Vipère au pied

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1324 - Barberine
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: draft

Rating

TD+  
6b+ > 6a+A0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1200 m / 1300 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Barberine - Vipère au Pied
Barberine - Vipère au Pied

Approach 20-25mins

There is a parking just after you turn of the main Vallorcine to Chatelard road towards the Barberine village. (Do not park in the village as this could upset the residents) Walk through the village until a good path on the right leads down to a bridge over the river, (into Switzerland) and up to the wood below the cliff. Go up through the woods to the base of the lower slabs, (popular for shorter, easier routes.) There are then two possibilities:
Either : Climb one of the bolted lines on the lower slabs in 2 or 3 pitches to reach a ledge with a cable (5b-6a).
Or : Go up the path on the right for about 50m height gain then traverse back left to the the cable.
Once at the cable, traverse leftwards to some trees and a sign indicating the way to the routes. Continue traversing leftwards for another 25m, climb up some easy rocks for 2m to reach the platform at the start of Medusa (Silvered bolts). The start of Vipere au Pied is 3m further left, and follows the line of golden bolts. (5m further left is the line of "Mirror on the Ceiling", with whitened silver bolts and just beyond that is the line of "Barbourine", Fixe bolts, which starts much lower down.)

Route

L1 6b+ Boulder problem start, (possible to avoid on the left?) then a short distance to the belay. (Possible to combine with pitch 2. 50m)
L2 6a Delicate slab.
L3 5b The same, start diagonally leftwards and finish up a steeper section.
L4 6a Trend leftwards, then straight up to a ledge.
L5 Walk Go 20m to the left, to a blue paint mark some 3-5m after the belay on Barbourine
L6 6a+ Climb through the overhang, (The line of bolts just to the left is Barbourine,) then traverse to the right to a hanging belay.
L7 6a+ Steep wall, the crux being just after the belay
L8 3 Go up to the right via a grassy chimney to a good stance. 2 bolts
L9 6b Superb, laybacking, then a steep wall, varied and sustained.
L10 3 Get past a large block on the right, (blue markings,) descend 2m then go up for 5m above a dead tree to a good stance on the right.) 3 bolts
L11 6a+ A steep, sustained wall, curving up from left to right. The slab exit maintains interest.

Descent

The belays are equipped for abseilling.
However, it is easier to descend on foot, (if dry.) Go up slightly to the right for about 20m to reach a path leading rightwards, (looking up), Follow this path which passes under several climbing areas (Gietroz), descends an easy gully, fixed rope, before curving back rightwards (looking down) to pass near the start of "Cacao Girls" and "Autoroute Blanche". Turn right at the beehives, then right again, pass by some holiday building to quickly arrive at the path leading to the frontier footbridge. About 30mins

remarks

The original route on the face. It has recently been re-bolted, making it less serious. Nonetheless, it is still sustained.
Starting up the first 4 pitches of Barbourine makes for a more homogeneous route.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

12 quickdraws, 50m rope, (x2 if you want to abseil)

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