Paretone di Arnad : Bucce d'arancia

Paretone di Arnad : Bucce d'arancia

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Escursionista - ESC11 - Valle di Champorcher - Parco Mont Avic
  • Escursionista - ESC12 - Basse valli d'Ayas e Gressoney

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 380 m / 796 m

height_diff_up: 280 m

height_diff_difficulties: 290 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the small parking area, follow the path with the red arrows; signposted « Machaby » at its start, (rock steps, some fixed ropes). You come to a path that goes along the bottom of the cliff at the route “ Bucce d’Arancia “. ( Black plaque on the rock.)
9 pitches with pitch 2 to the left and the route finishing on the right. All the belays are on shady ledges, except the last one.

Route

The grades given in guidebook « Mani nude II « are very different to the ones given here

L1 5c A slab then traverse leftwards under a little roof to gain an obvious crack which leads to the first belay.
L2 6a A nice pitch which follows a good crack which thins towards the top. The belay is on the right, under a roof.
L3 5+ Start with a traverse then a delicate move upwards to the right, then easier to a ledge.
L4 4+ Easy
L5 6a A very nice pitch up a sloping corner. Keep going straight up then traverse well to the right on exiting the corner, to gain a belay on a very comfortable ledge.
L6 6a The first 10 metres are challenging, after which go to the right to a small stance.
L7 5b/c A delicate start then up to a belay on a terrace.
L8-9 Go up behind a tree then follow the bolts traversing easily to the left. After pitch 8, the route joins the neighbouring route or go more easily to the right, (careful there are lots of bolt lines,) until it is possible to go straight up to the last belay.

Descent

Descend to gain the peaceful, little village of Machaby, then go sharply to the right, yellow signpost for the parking, (do not follow the stony track to the left going down the valley,) to follow a path with paint marks, (fixed ropes, easy rocky sections equipped with metal rungs, rails etc,) to the foot of the routes

remarks

• Because it faces SW and the low altitude, climbing is possible most of the year.
• Good, varied route, sustained at the grade
• Good rock, mostly slabs

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

external_resources

• 14 quickdraws

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