Aiguilles Rouges de Triolet - 2ème Pointe centrale : Kermesse folk

Aiguilles Rouges de Triolet - 2ème Pointe centrale : Kermesse folk

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1365 - Grand-St-Bernard
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Download track as

Rating

D  
5c > 5a

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2584 m / 3289 m

height_diff_up: 700 m

height_diff_difficulties: 550 m

difficulties_height: 2750 m

Access

height_diff_access: 150 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Motto, Gabarrou, Giovanetto 1996

description

A great route, three quarters of a kilometre of climbing on good rock.

Approach 30mins

From the Dalmazzi hut, follow the path with the water supply pipe to below the ridge which separates the S and E faces of the Second Pointe Centrale of the Aiguilles (Monts) Rouges du Triolet, (just above the hut.) (It is the second of the two big ridges from the hut.) Go up the boulder field. The start of the route is just to the right of the foot of the ridge, by some blackish rock. The first pitch starts up a slab trending right to an obvious hand traverse flake back to the left.

Route 5-7 hrs

18 pitches, equipped, follow the bolts, at times quite far apart. The first three pitches are 5b/5c, followed by six pitches pitches of 4b/5a to reach a broad ramp of loose rock going up diagonally from right to left. Go easily up this for two rope lengths until you can find the bolts again at the left hand side of the white slab area above. A pitch, easy at first then 4b, is followed by three pleasant slab pitches (5a/5b,) which lead to the top of an intermediary spur. There are then three more pitches to the last bolt belay just before the summit cairn, 4c/5a.

Descent

Either: Abseil back down the route. There is a real risk of the rope jamming. Not recommended
Or; as recommended by the hut guardian: From the top of the climb go easily onto the second summit on the right and scramble down the ridge (lots of loose rock, 2/3) for 10, max 15 mins, to a large boulder with a thin blue sling (+ maillon) around it. The top belay of "Mal Partiti" is about 3 metres directly below this sling, over the edge on the face itself, (awkward scramble down on loose rock,(two bolts linked with a white sling, 2014). Abseil down this route (7 abseils, and two occasions you have to trend right looking down,) A cairn over on the left, (further abseil down slabs to reach this possible,) marks the start of a faint path, which initially trends leftwards before then traversing a long way back to the right ,over the stream and down to the final rock band. Either climb down, 3b, or make 1 abseil to the screes and the approach path.

remarks

Ask at the hut for further information and a look/loan of the topo.
The “Chamois Volants” starts to the left of the ridge and is a similar grade (5c max)
The link over of the easy area after Pitch 9 to the next bolt is not shown as shown as such in the "Dalmazzi hut" and "Schweiz Paisir Sud" topos

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

2×50 m rope, 10 quickdraws, friends No. 2-5 useful

external_resources

Monte Bianco Le Classiche, Bassanini, Vivalda, 1998

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