Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de droite : Contrefort de droite - Éperon sublime ou Arête rouge

Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de droite : Contrefort de droite - Éperon sublime ou Arête rouge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5b > 5a

    I    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2380 m / 2570 m

height_diff_up: 190 m

height_diff_difficulties: 110 m

difficulties_height: 2460 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 80 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the top station of the Index chairlift, identify the lower, right buttress of the Floria. Follow the track NNE towards the col des Crochues and turn off left on a smaller track, just before the main track descends towards a little lake. Go over some boulders to reach the foot of the left hand edge of the cliff in 15 mins. Eperon Sublime takes this left-hand edge. Go up the scree on the left until you can see the first bolt at about 4-5 metres. A bit of rope knotted through a man made hole in the rock marks the start at some broken ledges a couple of metres above the scree. (Snow early in the season.)

Route

L1 4c A steep start straight up followed by a little traverse to the right, following some slabs.
L2 5b A steep section with two strenuous overhangs. The holds are all there, but take some finding.
L3 5a An easier start on a slab, followed by a steep wall and a crack. There is a belay part way up, which can be ignored as there should not be any rope drag.
L4 5b Go left and up some slabs then left again to an overhang to finish. (The finish can be avoided on the right.)
L5 2b 20m on the airy but easy ridge. (Here it is not recommended to combine pitches 4 and 5, danger of rope drag.)

An optional sixth pitch is to climb the Ouin-Ouin slab over on the left. Descend a little chimney, (there is a bolt 5-6m under the ridge on the side facing Chamonix.) Climb back up using a nice crack, which you finish by traversing slightly leftwards and continue to the top.

Descent

There are several possibilities :
- (Recommended) Traverse to the left (E), (looking down) to a cairn and an abseil point, about 30m after a little down climb. A 25m abseil brings you to a path leading to the Col des Crochues path.
- Traverse to the left (E) then go slightly upwards to a higher cairn. Continue contouring, then descend a bit before climbing back upwards to join a path. (This option, though not technically difficult is exposed and therefore not recommended for beginners.)
- Abseil down Robin Wood.

remarks

A good route with the bolts sometimes quite far apart. The athletic moves may seem hard for the grade, but are nearly always well protected.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

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