Index de la Glière : L'an d'Émile

Index de la Glière : L'an d'Émile

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD  
6a > 6aA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2595 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the path which goes to the Gliere ridge then climb up the scree slope to until you get a view of the W face of the Index.
The route starts at a little promontory to the right looking up. (A red stake.)

Route

L1 : 5c+ Thin moves on a slab. 40m
L2 : 5b Slab 30m
L3 : 6a Nice pitch, with a slightly strenuous section, (some of the holds seem fragile) 40m
L4 : 6a A slabby start then a nice corner 40m
L5 : A linking pitch on easy ground to the continuation of the route on the face down to the left.
L6 : 5b Slightly strenuous start then a beautiful slab 40m
L7 : 6a A thin start then back onto the spur on the right. 40m

Descent

At the top of the climb you join the classic route of the Index. One abseil brings you to the col from where you can walk/scramble down the gully. There is an abseil line in the gully in case of snow.

remarks

The route climbs the W face of the Index

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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