Piz Bernina : Via the Marco e Rosa hut (Spallagrat)

Piz Bernina : Via the Marco e Rosa hut (Spallagrat)

{{detailsCtrl.documentService.document.associations.images[0].locales[0].title}}

Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr - it

Map

  • Swisstopo - 44 - Passo del Maloja
  • Swisstopo - 268 - Julierpass / Pass dal Güglia
  • Swisstopo - 1277 - Piz Bernina

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

PD+     III    P2 
4.2 / E2
D / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 3597 m / 4048 m

height_diff_up: 450 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

First ascent: F.F.Tucket, F.A.Y. Brown, Chr. Almer, Franz Andermatten the 23th of june 1865.

description

Route

From the hut, go to the foot of the SSE ridge (about 3840m). Follow the crest of the ridge to a first step which you pass to the W, (left looking up), a move of 3/4 very well equipped. Follow the crest to a fore-summit (La Spalla, 4020m), some moves of 2/3, also well equipped. Depending upon conditions, it is possible to bypass some of the difficulties on snow slopes. From the fore-peak, continue easily along the ridge to the summit, initially snowy and then rocky.

Descent

Return by the same route, abseil points in-situ. The first rock step can be avoided by going to the SW, 20m above the step, and descending a ramp which leads to the foot of the face.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

4 slings, 5/6 quickdraws. 50m is better than a 30m rope if you chose to abseil.

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

{{::post['created_at'] | amUtc | amLocal | amTimeAgo}}
  • de
  • ca
  • eu
  • es