Tête Noire (Châtelard) : Le Pesseux

Tête Noire (Châtelard) : Le Pesseux

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1324 - Barberine
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

D   3    I 

heights

elevation min/max : 1000 m / 1200 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 80 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 30mins

From the parking at the side of the road about 500m before the border on the Swiss side, spot the icefall and climb directly up to it, following a vague track. Tiresome if there is a lot of snow.

Route

L1 40m, A steep start, then easier to a comfortable stance in the snow, tree belay.
L2 40m Starts of vertically for 7-8m then easier to a fallen tree, belay.

Descent

Abseil, from a bolt and linked tree at the foot of a rock, avoiding letting the ropes go into the pool at the foot of pitch 2!
Go up 5m to a tree with a sling and metal ring, to descend to the left of the icefall, 25m.
It is also possible to walk down on the left.

remarks

Faces N, away from the sun
A lot of flowing water which rarely totally freezes. Be careful with the iced over pools; they are deep!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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