Cogne - Valnontey : L'Acheronte

Cogne - Valnontey : L'Acheronte

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Escursionista - ESC09 - Valsavarenche - Gran Paradiso
  • Escursionista - ESC10 - Valle di Cogne - Gran Paradiso
  • Escursionista - ESC14 - Valle dell'Orco - Gran Paradiso

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

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Rating

AD+   3+    III    P2 

heights

elevation_min: 1666 m

height_diff: +690 m / -707 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

difficulties_height: 1800 m

slope: 80°

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From Cogne drive to the parking at the end of the Valnontey village. Keeping to the same side of the river (true right bank) follow the climbers path, beyond the last loop of the ski du fond, until the signpost "L'Acheronte". A rising traverse passes under the Patri climbs to an obvious gully/gorge to the right of Patri. A good line with a real mountain feel. The route freezes early in the season and remains in condition for a long time.

Route

L1 Broad homogeneous wall of 30m with 15m at 70°
Then a gully of easy ice for 150m.
L2 50m, upto 70°
L3 52m, 10m 75°
L4 52m, 10m 75°
L5 Nice bowl. 30m which becomes steeper and steeper to exit at 80°.

All the belays are on the true right bank, set up for abseiling.

Descent

Two possibilities:
Abseil down the route, belays on the true right
OR
Traverse to the left to beyond the top of “Patri de droite”, to the top of "Patri de Gauche" From here one can get to the upper bowl of the Patri in one 60m abseil, (Attention, the top part is very narrow and not practical if someone is climbing it,) from where it is possible descend the true right bank of the Patri on foot. After about half way traverse well to the right (looking down), to gain an easy gully to the left of the Patris

remarks

You get a real feeling of climbing a little torrent. Great setting.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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