Mont Dolent : Face S (voie normale), depuis le Val Ferret italien

Mont Dolent : Face S (voie normale), depuis le Val Ferret italien


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1365 - Grand-St-Bernard
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: glacier

quality: medium




elevation min/max : 1769 m / 3823 m

height_diff: +2054 m / -2054 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1100 m

slope: 45°


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




Due to global warming this route is probably best done in winter/spring with skis.

Approach :

Go to the Dolent (Cesare Fiorio) Bivouac hut either from the Italian (Arp Nouva) or the Swiss, (La Fouly), Val Ferret. (Click on link in header section for details.)

Route :

From above the bivouac there are numerous cairns and possibilities going up to the left, (difficult to find the best line by head torch) leading to the end of the true left bank of the glacier. Follow this then traverse to the left to go up a steeper section (40º) which leads to a bergschrund, which becomes harder to cross as the season progresses. Once crossed climb up to a rock buttress. This section faces south and is steep. It can very quickly become hard ice. There remains about 300m of easy climbing on rotten rock, then better rock along the ridge to the summit.
At the beginning of the season it is a snow route, mainly traversing with sections up to 40° or more.

Descent :

By the same way, taking care as it is a long, steep and exposed slope. Rocks can provide running belays.


• By August, September the glacier has little snow left and there will be lots of snow bridges to cross, the bergschrund may be very open and a risk of stonefall once on the glacier.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


• 2 ice screws for the bergschrund


Mont Blanc classic & plasir - Rosselli - 2012


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