Aiguilles Dorées - Aiguille Sans nom : Copt couloir

Aiguilles Dorées - Aiguille Sans nom : Copt couloir

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: corridor

quality: medium

Rating

AD+     II    P2 
5.1 / E2
TD- / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 3170 m / 3444 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

slope: 45°/150m + 50°/30m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

  • From the Trient, identify the large couloir in the middle of in the face N face of the Aiguilles Dorées. Cross the Trient plateau towards this couloir. (30-45 minutes)
  • From the Bivouac des Aiguilles Dorées, cross the Col Droit to reach the Trient plateau, then traverse WSW to the foot of the couloir.

Route

Overcome the bergschrund, and climb up the middle of the couloir. Exit to the left of the Aiguille Sans Nom. (45 minutes-1 hour)
To reach the summit, follow the obvious ledge on the S side (sling.)
On skis one can exit on the ridge to the right at the level of a notch.

Descent

By the Couloir

From the summit, traverse to the E for several dozen metres until the extremity of the ridge: belay with slings and a metal ring. Make a 35m abseil to a good terrace: Col Copt 3410 m. Follow the line of abseils installed on the right and left sides of the couloir, to reach the Trient glacier. Go due N to the Trient hut or the Orny hut lower down.

E Traverse about 3 hrs

The traverse of the Aiguilles Dorees to the E.
(This description is only an outline.) A bit of easy ridge above the slopes of the Copt couloir leads to an abseil of 35m down to the Col Copt, (the step is clearly visible from far away). From there, traverse by some slabs on the S side, with a short passage on the N side to get around an orange pinnacle (section of 3b-4b) until at notch at the foot of the Trident. From here it is possible to escape in 4 abseils down the N side. However, it is much more interesting to traverse the ridges: the Trident is climbed firstly on the right, and then to the left, abseil from the summit. An easy section of ridge leads to the Javelle which is climbed by its face (hard 4c, climbing shoes recommended.) Abseil down the other side. The Tête Crettez is turned firstly on the right and then climbed by a chimney (4c) on the E side. One can also avoid the summit by a ledge clearly visible from the start. All that remains is to reach the Col Droit. Climb down the ledges slanting to the left, (a complex route but well cairned,) with a 25m abseil in the middle (using slings). One arrives at a gap overlooking the Col Droit. Climb up towards the N then 2 abseils of 25m, (recently bolted,) and then 5m of easy down climbing to reach the snow. The Orny hut is just a 45m glissade away. (It is a glacier so stay roped up.)

remarks

The couloir is quick to turn to ice.
There are a lot of options to exit the couloir, to the right or left. A popular option is to the right, exiting on a thin ridge with a pitch of 40m on rock, crack passage of 4, sling on a spike and a belay on the summit, with a sling.
Done very quickly from the Trient hut, but if the chairlifts are closed it is best to sleep at the Orny hut, (1400 m of ascension from Champex-Lac). This makes the outing more balanced. There remains 500m to the foot of the couloir.
It is also possible to traverse the Aiguilles to the W. A much longer undertaking.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Abseil rope of 40m if one does the Traverse of the Aiguilles.
  • At least a 50m abseil rope if one goes down the couloir.

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