Mont Oreb : L'Été Indien

Mont Oreb : L'Été Indien

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

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Rating

TD-  
6a+ > 5cA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1350 m / 2100 m

height_diff: +750 m / -20 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 1870 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

J. Mottin and H. Thivierge, october 2001.

description

A great climb, consistent in the grade, and in a superb setting

Approach 1h15

From Buet go up the Berard valley by the Pierre Blanc hut path until point IGN 1702m, cairn (45-60 mins).
Take a path to the right, (N), which goes up the slope towards the cliff, cairns (15-20mins)
« Ete Indien » is on the right, with silver bolt hangars. To the left, slightly higher up, is the start of "Into the Wild", a newer route with glue s/s ring bolts, that goes at a similar grade. The routes cross over at the first belay

665935

Route

L1 5b 42m Straight up, turning a pine tree on the left, small corner. " bolts with chain, shared with "Into the Wild"
L2 6a 38m Take the left hand line of bolts (the ones with hangers). Slab with cracks, straight up then to the left
L3 6a 40m Climb the vertical wall on the right, good holds
L4 5b 40m Go slightly to the left, then straight up to a large terrace
L5 6a 44m A superb slab, then a bulge
L6 6a+ 40m Start with a leftwards rising traverse, then straight up. The crux pitch, very well bolted.
L7 6a 30m Straight up

Descent

Five 50m abseils down the route: B7-B5, B5-B4, B4-B3, B3-B1, B1-ground.
The belay points for the last 3 abseils are 2m to the right of the belays used on the climb. Careful not to snag the rope on the 2nd and 4th abseils

remarks

Great route, highly recommended

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

2x50 rope (abseils)
13 quickdraws
Nuts not necessary, (even psychologically)

external_resources

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