Pic de Jallouvre : Voie des Cristaux (Voie des Criquets)

Pic de Jallouvre : Voie des Cristaux (Voie des Criquets)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

PD+  
4b > 4bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1550 m / 2408 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

orientations

E W S N

description

More of a scramble than a rock climb, which when combined with the « arête des Bouquetins » gives a superb and exposed outing of over 1km. There are plenty of bolts which serve as much to show the way as for protection. Keep an eye out for ibex, buzzards, edelwiess etc.

Topo : accès au Jallouvre, Colombière et Dzérat
Topo : accès au Jallouvre, Colombière et Dzérat
Topo : Face S du Jallouvre
Topo : Face S du Jallouvre

Approach 10mins

Park the car at a little quarry next to the second hairpin as one descends the S side of the Col de la Colombière. Walk along a little ridge to the end of the quarry workings and then straight up a grassy slope, cairns, to find the foot of the route, (name “Les Cristaux” painted in red on the rocks, bolts higher up.)

Route

The route follows the line of a faint spur on the right hand end of the cliffs. No pitch by pitch description is given, just take the best line, following the many bolts, even on the easier pitches. If you do not find a bolt for a bit, then you are off route.
The route starts up slabs with 5 pitches of 3b, (4a max.) The first pitch is 50m but can be split.
Then there is 10mins walking to the right of a series of slabs, following small cairns to reach a large one. (Careful, the grass can be very slippery, especially early in the season.) Possibility to escape at this point by a faint path leading to the Col de la Colombière.
From the large cairn, climb a series of 45°slabs with runnels,(grade 2-3,) some grassy ledges, and the occasional rock step at up to 4b.
Around the 15th pitch there is a walking section which leads to under a little overhang (above a steep gully with a jammed block) which goes at 4b (3m) and leads to the last pitch up superb twisted runnels.
This brings you to the return path from the via ferrata, (cable in place in the summer.)
This is near the start of the arête des Bouquetins indicated by red paint markings. Highly recommended, see link for a description.

Arête des Bouquetins: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55769/en/pointe-blanche-arete-des-bouquetins-pic-de-jallouvre-et-traversee-vers-la-pointe-blanche

Descent :

To descend from here, follow the path for the return from the via ferrata. Take care if the cables have been removed for the winter as the rock is polished. In Spring there can still be be snow patches.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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