Rives de la Mer de Glace - Rocher des Mottets : Via Corda Alpina

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Location

Location

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 1080 m / 1638 m

height_diff: +558 m / -558 m

height_diff_difficulties: 558 m

Rating

Rating

PD  
3c > 3cA0

    I    P1 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description

Approach

From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “Sommet de la Norvege”. A few metres behind this signpost is another sign “via corda alpina”, attached to a tree which marks the start of the route. Due to its popularity, the correct route is well worn.

Route:

Follow the rock steps interspersed with walking sections; no need to untie as the next stretch of rock climbing is never far away, allowing yourself to be guided by the cairns, bolts etc, which mark the route.

175819

The route is in six parts:

  • The chamois climb
  • The passage of the “sabinette”
  • The theft of the “perfo”
  • The ledge of the buck and the traverse of the Italians.

(A 90 metre traverse, being careful to descend slightly to the left and to avoid climbing too high. There is a cable to stop you going too high)

  • The veterans wall
  • Canyon and Oasis

Hopefully, the names will become understandable once you have done the route!

Descent:

Continue along the (now not so) faint track (Canyon and Oasis) to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path direction Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the signposted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Le Bois. (1h)

remarks

Good practice in moving quickly while roped together. If you decide to pitch it, be prepared to bivouac!
The route combines walking and climbing and so gives good experience in moving safely on easy ground.
The route is equipped with bolts, though not necessarily at the belays. However, depending on the level of the party, take some slings for the belays and for runners using trees/bushes.

gear

30m rope is sufficient
Harness and Helmet
Some slings
8 quickdraws
Good walking shoes/boots. (Not trainers as the rock is often damp and slippy.)

Associated waypoints

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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