Le Clocher de Planpraz : Clocher-Clochetons traverse

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 1999 m / 2412 m

height_diff_up: 413 m

Rating

Rating

AD+  
5a > 5a

    II    P2 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

Licence

description


A great classic of the area, short but with amusing sections.

Approach # 1hr

From the top of the Planpraz bubbles, follow the Brevent path and the signposts "Clocher-clochetons". At a bend to the left (2197m), leave the Brevent path for a little path, (cairn), which climbs, crossing rock debris, until the W col of the Clocher.

Route

L# | (4c) : Start up the W face of the Clocher, then after a few metres, go onto the S face. Traverse along a ledge, (crossing the bolts on Cocher-Cochon) and so up to the summit of the Clocher by one of the three cracks, (the one on the left is the hardest)
Make a 25m abseil down the N side, starting in a chimney.)

L# | (2+/3) : Reach the summit of the Petit Clocher by climbing the easy, broken rocks.
A 40m abseil, (possible to split at 25m) brings you to the foot of the first Clocheton (escape possible to the N).

L# | (4c/5a) : Climb steeply to the summit of the 1st Clocheton.
From the summit platform reach the summit platform of the 2nd Clocheton by a Tyrolienne of several metres.

L# | (4c) : Short pitch to the summit of the 2nd Clocheton.
A vertical 20m abseil brings you to the foot of the 3rd Clocheton. (Careful with the rope.)

L# | (5a) : Climb the 3rd Clocheton by a typically strenuous "Chamonix" crack, (the one on the left.)

Descent

By a faint path, go past the last pinnacle on the right, then go to the N.
(It is also possible to reach the path directly by making a 25m abseil from the summit of the 3rd Clocheton, down its N side.)
Go back to the W col of the Clocher to regain the sacks and the approach path.

remarks

The belays are equipped for abseilling, (chains).
Can be combined with Hôtel California or Cocher-Cochon, (fast parties.).
Can be too popular.

gear

The in-situ protection is old style, i.e pegs. Take friends,nuts and slings

route_history

Le Clocher: Jean and Joseph Demarchi, 1911
Traverse: A. Agussol, J. Le Bec, J. & T. Lepiney, 31 august 1913

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