Aiguille de la Glière : Nez rouge

Aiguille de la Glière : Nez rouge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

D-  
5b > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2836 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 175 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 5min

The buttress is straight in front of you as you step of the Index chairlift, recognisable by a red mark at the foot of the cliff. Walk to this then go up the scree to the right, past the first line of bolts (Mani Puliti) for about another 50m.

Route

You start at a slab. The 1st bolt is 5m above the snow/scree.

L0 4b If the snow is detached from the rock, get onto the rock some 20m to the left by an additional pitch, no bolts (size 0.5 Friend possible).
L1 5b/c 45m Start at a pale slab then finish up a dark pillar, slightly to the right (do not go up a vague corner). The crux is a slab move at 10m. Intermediate belay possible at 20m.
L2 4b Climb a sort of ledge by going left to reach the first bolts in a black spur. Belay at the top of this spur.
L3 4b Climb a spur to the right of Mani Puliti. Belay on bolts.
L4 4b Cross a little gully to the right then climb a little wall to a ledge (path) follow this path for 5-10m to the right to the foot of the last pitch.
L5 5a A green slab. Half way up the slab go obliquely right (careful with rope drag) then straight up to belay at the top on bolts.

Descent

Scramble easily down the S (to the right looking down) gully of the buttress, then easy ledges to a little col overlooking the col de l’Index. From here either climb down a little gully on the right to join the scree path coming down from the Index or follow the faint path to the left until a 25m abseil onto the screes below.

It is also possible to abseil back down Mani Puliti, not recommended due to its popularity.

remarks

Well bolted, Good gneiss with lots of finger holds – especially near the top.
A small route, very relaxed, to be recommended for beginners.
It can be very busy.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 50m rope, 10 quickdraws.
  • Perhaps some small nuts and friend (0.5-1).

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