Aiguille de la République : Normal route

Aiguille de la République : Normal route

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: face, pillar

quality: fine

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Rating

D  
6c+ > 4c

  A0    III  X2    P3  E4 

heights

elevation min/max : 2523 m / 3305 m

height_diff: +800 m / -800 m

height_diff_difficulties: 650 m

difficulties_height: 2650 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 600 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The route up to the level of the summit of the Tour Rouge is in common with "Grépon-Mer de Glace".

Approach

From the Envers hut, go onto the Trelaporte glacier and traverse northwards to under the Tour Rouge. Pass the bergschrund as far right as possible, (delicate) and traverse to the left, passing another bergschrund to gain the rock. (Do not hang around here.)

Route

Climb leftwards up a series of chimneys, corners and ledges, (4a to 4c), passing the remains of a bivouac hut on the right, until at the level of the summit of the Tour Rouge. Here one leaves the E face of the Grepon route, which continues on the left, to go into a basin at the foot of the enormous slabs of the Grand Charmoz. Climb up as best one can a series of ledges (3c) to escape the basin and gain a full view of the Aiguille. Descend a few metres to find a large traverse ledge then a series of strenuous walls to get to some 30m below the gap of the Republique. (Possible to leave the sacs here.)

Start by the ledges ascending to the left, pass a standing stone, (obelisk), climb a little corner and a step to reach the foot of the ridge. (belay, 4c). Climb the line of the ridge for one and a half rope lengths 4b/4c, strenuous, fixed belay.
After bypassing several boulders, (taking note of the belay on a terrace for a long abseil to the obelisk,) make a belay at the foot of the summit block. Climb this (15m) using old and more modern bolts A0, (or free at 6c slab,) to reach the summit.

Descent

Make two short abseils to reach the platform near the boulders.
A free hanging abseil of 50m brings one to the obelisk. Climb down for a short way in the direction of the gap, belay in place and a short abseil to find yourself under the Grand Charmoz. Make an abseil from one bolt. Make another abseil to regain the large ledge and the basin, (belay on a large sling around a block.) In the basin there are numerous belays, mostly on the true left, or climb down. From the Tour Rouge, numerous and good belays to abseil (50m) onto the glacier, avoiding the top bergschrund.
ATTENTION, the last abseil is partly free hanging down the line of a crack, very easy to get the rope snagged.

remarks

  • Gets the sun early on and at a moderate altitude.
  • 650m from the bergshrund to the summit, it is important not to hang about and to move together as much as possible.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Crampons and ice axe essential for the glacier
  • 2×50 m rope, quickdraws, slings, nuts, climbing shoes,
  • Bits of tat and metal rings to renew some of the abseil points

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