Aiguille de la Persévérance : NE Ridge

Aiguille de la Persévérance : NE Ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: great

Rating

D  
4c > 4c

    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2300 m / 2901 m

height_diff_up: 600 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

description

This route is listed in Rebuffat’s 100 best routes. However, the South ridge has since become more popular. The remote and bleak character of the breche, and the sometimes suspect nature of the rock should ensure that the NE ridge is relatively uncrowded.

230759

Approach 2h

From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the paths to the Lac Blanc then the Lac de Perseverence. Aim for the second gully to the right of the Aig de Perseverence.

Route 4h

Do not take the first gully, but the second (which leads to the Aiguille Martin) for 150m before taking a leftward rising ramp.
Climb a system of pillars and chimneys (passages of 3) to the ridge which links the Breche de La Perseverence and the Aig. Martin (2-3 pitches). Follow this ridge leftwards, horizontally then downwards to an abseil (10 metres) which brings you to the Breche (niche) de La Perseverence (2623m). This is an impressive and bleak place.
It is also possible to reach the gully by making a leftward traverse 50 metres below the line of the ridge.

From the breche:
P1 A few metres below the col and a block, climb a gently rising leftward traverse (3c-4a) to reach a secondary ridge. Follow this for 20m (4a, 1 peg) to a good stance (pegs) with a ledge to the right.
P2 Traverse to the right and climb a corner (1 peg) to a small ledge at the foot of a steep wall. Climb the wall on the right (5b, 1 peg) then left to a stance (1 peg and small nut placement).
P3 Continue to the summit by the easiest route (4c).

Descent 2h

Abseil from just below the extreme W end of the ridge (25 metres) followed by a climb down to a second 25 metre abseil to reach the Col de la Perseverence (2840m).
From the Col, it is possible to:

  • Descend the gully then the scree slope to the Lac Blanc and Flegere.
  • Climb the Aiguille des Chamois.

remarks

  • The approach, longer than for many of the summits in the Aiguilles Rouges, ensures that the crowds can be avoided.
  • The route has a remote and wilderness character, with many Ibex and few people. It gives magnificent views of the Mont Blanc Massif and Mt Buet.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

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